Did a Paint Correction on my '12 X5M Carbon Black

[Naz24]

Spent 14 hours removing swirls and marring on the paint from the previous owner's use of Auto washes. Here's my Product list:

- Adams Car Wash
- IronX
- Griots Garage Clay with D114 as lubrication
- Megs M105 with Microfiber Cutting Pad
- Sonax Perfect Finish with Green Pad
- Menzerna Power Lock, Hand applied
- Sonax PNS on the windows


Here's the after video:

[Naz24]

Some random process photos (no real order of these)

[boneca]

great work, congrats

[jiggz]

Awesome work! I'll be tackling this similar job on my M3 once the weather gets better.

Question - I'm doing a compound, finisher, and sealant same as you (after wash and clay of course), are all those steps together considered paint correction? Just trying to understand the term. Detailing shops will offer a full detail using polish, wax, etc., but 'paint correction' is typically different - more $, a lot more labor, etc.

In your case, did you apply the compound, then finisher, then repeat until you got the desired results, or just one application of each?

[Naz24]

Originally Posted by jiggz

Awesome work! I'll be tackling this similar job on my M3 once the weather gets better.

Question - I'm doing a compound, finisher, and sealant same as you (after wash and clay of course), are all those steps together considered paint correction? Just trying to understand the term. Detailing shops will offer a full detail using polish, wax, etc., but 'paint correction' is typically different - more $, a lot more labor, etc.

In your case, did you apply the compound, then finisher, then repeat until you got the desired results, or just one application of each?

Good questions, jiggz. I have a few questions and answers for you as well:

1. What kind of polisher are you planning on using? I used a porter cable, but i really wish i had a rupes for the job. The real "paint correction" part is with the first step, in which i used M105 and a MF pad. The M105 is a compound that cuts through the clear coat to remove defects. Since its a coarse polish, it leaves the finish with a slight haze. I use the final polish to remove that haze and really shine the surface for that pop. You should do the first stage polish and get the swirls to a point where you are comfortable, the finishing polish removes little to no real swirl marks.

The typical car wash "polish and wax" is complete BS. They typically use a rotary polisher and install more swirl marks, cover it up with a glaze that fills in those scratches. Within 2 weeks you'll see them again. If you are going to contract this out, i cant stress enough to find a truly reputable detailer. A good paint correction can cost up to and over $1k, depending on the condition of the car.

Hope this helps!!

[jiggz]

Originally Posted by Naz24

Good questions, jiggz. I have a few questions and answers for you as well:

1. What kind of polisher are you planning on using? I used a porter cable, but i really wish i had a rupes for the job. The real "paint correction" part is with the first step, in which i used M105 and a MF pad. The M105 is a compound that cuts through the clear coat to remove defects. Since its a coarse polish, it leaves the finish with a slight haze. I use the final polish to remove that haze and really shine the surface for that pop. You should do the first stage polish and get the swirls to a point where you are comfortable, the finishing polish removes little to no real swirl marks.

The typical car wash "polish and wax" is complete BS. They typically use a rotary polisher and install more swirl marks, cover it up with a glaze that fills in those scratches. Within 2 weeks you'll see them again. If you are going to contract this out, i cant stress enough to find a truly reputable detailer. A good paint correction can cost up to and over $1k, depending on the condition of the car.

Hope this helps!!

Thanks, appreciate the reply and help. I'm using a Griot's Garage 6" random orbital.

Couple more questions, if you don't mind...

1 - I've never used a compound before, only polishes, sealants and so forth. But the paint is calling for it, the prior owner didn't take the best care of it. I have some Griot's correcting pads that say 'for use with compounds, polishes....' but would you recommend I get a micro-fiber pad for the compound? This pad is not micro-fiber. FWIW, I'll be using the Menzerna Heavy Cut 1000, which is their least aggressive compound.

2 - When you say cuts through the clear coat, should I be worried about that? This doesn't damage it, right?

3 - So it sounds like you applied the compound a few times to get your desired results...did you simply re-apply the compound over the prior coat, or wash it off in between? Or use the finisher in-between compound applications?

Thanks,
Jeff

[Naz24]

Originally Posted by jiggz

Thanks, appreciate the reply and help. I'm using a Griot's Garage 6" random orbital.

Couple more questions, if you don't mind...

1 - I've never used a compound before, only polishes, sealants and so forth. But the paint is calling for it, the prior owner didn't take the best care of it. I have some Griot's correcting pads that say 'for use with compounds, polishes....' but would you recommend I get a micro-fiber pad for the compound? This pad is not micro-fiber. FWIW, I'll be using the Menzerna Heavy Cut 1000, which is their least aggressive compound.

2 - When you say cuts through the clear coat, should I be worried about that? This doesn't damage it, right?

3 - So it sounds like you applied the compound a few times to get your desired results...did you simply re-apply the compound over the prior coat, or wash it off in between? Or use the finisher in-between compound applications?

Thanks,
Jeff

Jeff --

Griots should work quite well actually. Get yourself a good flash light or construction lighting so you can see the swirls.

it's hard to say which pad is actually best to use, it really depends on the condition. Obviously microfiber cutting pads are the most aggressive, but i've done the same process with a heavy cutting foam pad with similar results. Make sure you keep the polisher flat and dont move it too quickly, follow a basket weave motion in 2x2 areas. (ALWAYS Tape off black trim and any areas that would be hard to remove polish). Remove the polish with a slightly wet plush microfiber.

2. it would take a lot of cutting to get through your clear coat. Literally almost impossible for a weekend warrior like ourselves to cut down to bare paint, it would involve wet sanding, etc. With that being said, the goal is to take off the least amount necessary to get to a correction you are satisfied with. you are barely taking a layer off to get to "clean" clearcoat where the swirls no longer exist.

3. Applying the compound depends. Some areas only required one pass, some areas i had to go back and do again. Do a 2x2 area of heavy polish, then remove with MF, then move onto the next area. To redo an area you are unhappy with, you can just do another coat, dont use finishing polish until you are happy with the of the first compound. Finish your heavy polish, inspect swirls, then do the entire car with lighter polish.

Check out this video put out by Adam's Car Care, it goes through the steps and gives a nice explanation of how you should follow. Feel free to PM Me too, i can hop on a call and explain the process if you want help

[jiggz]

Thanks again. Good video, just watched it. I got the lighting and orbital stuff down from past work, but this clears up the compound application piece. Based off the video, I'll pick up a micro-fiber pad just in case I need something more aggressive.

I enjoy doing the work, but at the same time it baffles me people buy nice cars and drive them through automated car washes and trash the paint. Or maybe they washed it in the driveway with a sandy wash mitt

[Naz24]

Originally Posted by jiggz

Thanks again. Good video, just watched it. I got the lighting and orbital stuff down from past work, but this clears up the compound application piece. Based off the video, I'll pick up a micro-fiber pad just in case I need something more aggressive.

I enjoy doing the work, but at the same time it baffles me people buy nice cars and drive them through automated car washes and trash the paint. Or maybe they washed it in the driveway with a sandy wash mitt

All good! enjoy the day, and be ready to have a really sore back the next day lol

Agreed on all fronts. Have you followed obsessed garage at all? A forum member here created it, they have a very active facebook group and tons of helpful videos