New injectors, finally runs but now a grocery list of errors

[m5james]

Over a two week span I'd taken my 2010 X5M apart to remove both PCV hoses running to the valve covers, removed the plugs and injectors, the front window was randomly replaced in the middle of all this by Safelite for a rock chip, then once parts arrived, everything was replaced with all new parts with the assistance of a buddy who's a full time tech at A BMW of Seattle. During the two weeks period the battery had died for likely multiple reasons...door opened and closed randomly (which wakes the computer, primes the fuel pump, etc) so I finally put a trickle charger on the car. To my ignorance, I'd plugged it into the switched outlet that only worked when the lights were on in the garage. After realizing the battery was stone dead, I switched to another outlet that was constant, but even after a few days, it was still dead...I finally removed the battery and charged it on my work bench for 24hrs.

After we finally got everything reinstalled, we threw the battery back in, but it still wasn't enough, the battery from the GF's Scion wasn't even but we finally got it to start using the battery from my Harley F150. Car stuttered a little bit but ultimately it's finally running like a top. Issue is now that I've noticed oddities that no matter how many times I reset the codes using my Android phone and an app called Carista, I still can't get things to operate as normal.

iDrive gives me an error message saying "Lighting system! Stop vehicle" and "Seat Calibration" error messages - my windows won't roll down via the normal window switch (only the rears and sunroof open and close via the keyfob), no interior lights, power folding mirrors and mirrors themselves and I've got a car on lift icon that won't go away. Google searches have led me to believe it could be anything from a blown LCM light control module, all the computers just needing to be recoded so they see each other to maybe even a fault caused by the window company replacing the rain/headlight sensors since my headlights won't shut off, no marker lights, no dash lights, no turn signals, no hazards and the headlights themselves won't turn or self level while the car is moving. Stock battery is back in the car, but the codes remain. Another BMW tech buddy suggested doing the simply system reset of disconnecting the battery and touching the terminals together for 15 min, so I'll try that this evening, but nevertheless I figured I'd post these here...all I ask is please to keep the replies factual vs "I heard from a friend" scare tactics because I've read some of those today when people said that they either could code or had to replace modules in the footwell, the LCM, etc to getting a tech who knows what they're doing and just reset it all.

These are the codes that came up after finally get a good battery in the truck, start it for the first time and then running codes:

OBD2 - confirmed:
U0100 - Lost Communication With ECM/PCM "A"
OBD2 - pending:
P1701
OBD2 - pending:
U0100 - Lost Communication With ECM/PCM "A"
OBD2 - pending:
P16A3
OBD2 - pending:
P0172 - System Too Rich Bank 1
OBD2 - pending:
P0175 - System Too Rich Bank 2
OBD2 - permanent:
U0100 - Lost Communication With ECM/PCM "A"
Transmission:
507D
Transmission:
50DC
Transmission:
CF2F
Transmission:
CF30 - Check Control message
Transmission:
CF33 - Delay requirement ACC
Transmission:
CF37 - SMG 3
Transmission:
55C3
Transmission:
55D0
Heater & air conditioning:
E71F
Rear heater & A/C:
E75E
Traction/stability control:
5DCF
Traction/stability control:
6EC4
Traction/stability control:
6EA5
Traction/stability control:
6EC8
Airbags:
9408 - Undervoltage during self test
Airbags:
93D0 - Undervoltage
Instrument cluster:
931B
Instrument cluster:
931D
Instrument cluster:
A3B0 - CAN signal fault dimming
Instrument cluster:
A3B4 - CAN signal fault light system
Instrument cluster:
A3C1
Instrument cluster:
A566
Dynamic management:
641A
Dynamic management:
6460
Tire pressure monitor:
604F
Tire pressure monitor:
6050
Tire pressure monitor:
6051
Tire pressure monitor:
6052
Parking brake:
6023
Trailer:
AAAA
Trailer:
AAAB
Trailer:
E559
Car access system:
A0B1
Central electronics:
A2CD
Central electronics:
E2D5
High beam assist:
E0D5 - unknown failure
High beam assist:
E0D8 - state of lamp
Center roof module:
DE8B
Driver's seat:
9E77 - Normalization error SLV
Infotainment system:
C588
Infotainment display:
A475 - Ignition failure
Infotainment display:
E5D8
Heads-up display:
A4EB
Heads-up display:
A4F8 - CAN Message failure

These are pretty much all the codes that remain even after countless resets:

OBD2 - permanent:
U0100 - Lost Communication With ECM/PCM "A"
Transmission:
55C3
Transmission:
55D0
Heater & air conditioning:
E71F
Rear heater & A/C:
E75E
Traction/stability control:
6EC8
Traction/stability control:
6EC4
Traction/stability control:
6EA5
Traction/stability control:
6F4E
Traction/stability control:
6DE6
Instrument cluster:
A3B0 - CAN signal fault dimming
Instrument cluster:
A3B4 - CAN signal fault light system
Instrument cluster:
A3C1
Instrument cluster:
A558
Instrument cluster:
A559
Dynamic management:
6460
Trailer:
E559
Central electronics:
E2D5
High beam assist:
E0D5 - unknown failure
High beam assist:
E0D8 - state of lamp
Driver's seat:
9E77 - Normalization error SLV
Infotainment display:
E1CD - unknown failure
Infotainment display:
E5D8
Heads-up display:
A4F8 - CAN Message failure

OBD2 - pending:
P0175 - System Too Rich Bank 2
OBD2 - pending:
P0172 - System Too Rich Bank 1
OBD2 - pending:
P0308 - Cylinder 8 Misfire Detected (likely my fault for getting into boost before coding the injectors )

[jiggz]

Wow - what a mess/headache

I guess this is where I differ from you DIY'er guys. I just don't have the time nor patience do deal with all this bullsh*t - I'd rather just take it to the dealer and get it fixed once and for all, and the cost is what it is. That's just me though.

[m5james]

It'd have cost 3x as much to have BMW of ______ do this job for me, so instead I have fellow BMW/Bimmerfest buddies help via Facebook and a BMW tech came over. My online research has led to it potentially being that either the modules are stuck in a basic booting mode like a laptop or that a module is fried, which apparently is common for people who do personalization coding...window features, DVD in motion, etc and there's a guy who rebuilds them for $300. Even with $900 injectors, $200 for the help installing them and IF it costs $300 to have a known failing module rebuilt, I'm still half of what BMW would have charged. Someones coming tomorrow morning to code my injectors at minimum, see if he can clear the other items and if he can't then I'll likely be driving it to see the same guy who helped with the injector and go from there. Once my plan is all said and done, I'll be close to 700hp for an SUV that I got for 1/3 the price of new, even with mods, issues, etc...so I'm finding my silver lining

[xpl0sive]

It sounds like the footwell module isn't working. If your lights, turn signals, Etc don't work. You can try having all your modules coded back to factory by having NCS do an fa_write on the whole car. If it's the footwell module, you might as well get a new one for $300 instead of paying $300 for having it rebuilt.

[m5james]

Headlights turn on my default, regardless of knob position. You're correct though...no turn signals, highbeams, blinkers, etc and it was mentioned elsewhere about the footwell module. Tonight I'll go old school and disconnect the battery and touch the cables together for 15 min, otherwise I've got a guy coming by in the morning with an Aultel (sp?) machine to code the injectors and I'll mention this to him. Thanks, xplOsive. You do your injectors yet? Holy crap what a shit show, but this guy was super nice, came over at 8am (I'm a night person, usually of work at 1am Pacific Time) and stayed, literally doing all the work, until he finished everything until it was running 8hrs later. I just watched, took pics and mostly stayed outta his way, cleaned his tools, handed him sockets, etc whatever just to at least try to help lol.

On a side note, gutted cats sound awesome...I can hear the turbos spool and BOV slightly from the cockpit, then a slight whistle when reving the engine while still standing in the drivers door. Hoping all goes well later today, I'll be making my appointment for muffler delete so I can really hear them

[butch1021]

This same thing happened to me when i disconnected the battery to change the steering wheel.. Upon reconnecting the battery it shorted out the PCM in the footwell.. No blinkers, no windows, no lights. Brought into the dealer.. 600 for the part 150 to recode.

Originally Posted by m5james

Headlights turn on my default, regardless of knob position. You're correct though...no turn signals, highbeams, blinkers, etc and it was mentioned elsewhere about the footwell module. Tonight I'll go old school and disconnect the battery and touch the cables together for 15 min, otherwise I've got a guy coming by in the morning with an Aultel (sp?) machine to code the injectors and I'll mention this to him. Thanks, xplOsive. You do your injectors yet? Holy crap what a shit show, but this guy was super nice, came over at 8am (I'm a night person, usually of work at 1am Pacific Time) and stayed, literally doing all the work, until he finished everything until it was running 8hrs later. I just watched, took pics and mostly stayed outta his way, cleaned his tools, handed him sockets, etc whatever just to at least try to help lol.

On a side note, gutted cats sound awesome...I can hear the turbos spool and BOV slightly from the cockpit, then a slight whistle when reving the engine while still standing in the drivers door. Hoping all goes well later today, I'll be making my appointment for muffler delete so I can really hear them

[m5james]

A guy from a Facebook forum came by this morning with his Aultel code reader, couldn't get it to connect to much of anything, couldn't code the injectors so I threw in the towel and drive it to my buddies place who helped with the injectors and he's going to take it to work with him and play with it on the side so I'm hoping to get away for 1/3rd that. I've wanted the car to be hard reset anyways (delete EVERYTHING left over from the prior owner like GPS history, music on the harddrive, modules updated if needed, etc etc) so it'll be all new to me.

[xpl0sive]

Good plan. I'm guessing you may need a new FRM module. Did you end up buying new or used injectors? Did you replace anything else?

[m5james]

He's taking it with him to BMW of Seattle tomorrow and he'll see if he can recode it beforehand, so fingers crossed. Doing a simple Google search on the codes and symptoms I'm getting, these things fail at a pretty high rate...pretty sad considering something so simple as voltage changes from disconnecting a battery could cause it. I know you'd mentioned getting a new one vs a rebuilt, but i'm curious if rebuilt means beefier parts. I've repaired 3-4 Samsung TV's due to blown capacitors (ones in my living room and the other in my garage) by using capacitors with higher ratings, so I'd hope if someone is rebuilding that maybe they're doing the same.

As for the injectors, I was going to go used and get -11 injectors @ $35 each (5 from one seller, 3 from another), but then I'd read and watched videos about the teflon rings that I'd have to buy, apparently they need to be either shrunken down slowly via tapered sleeves, so I just decided to bite the bullet on new. $898 shipped after a 5% discount from www.rockauto.com and I got brand new BMW -12 injectors that just happen to come in SMP (Standard Motor Parts) boxes. I did reuse the decouplers, just SLIGHTLY bent the tabs back in until they snapped nicely into place, removed the injector tip covers and install within 5 minutes so the teflon didn't expand. The procedure to remove and reinstall them shows 11hrs book time at BMW, but this guy went above and beyond by removing and reinstalling the injectors as well as replacing everything else I'd removed (downpipes, heat shields, countless bolts, etc) all within 8hrs. I wish I'd taken more pics as he was doing it and could attempt a writeup, but I was mostly just trying to stay outta his way.

He can do the coding at BMW, I'm still in talks with my laptop guy about the software and/or heads because he said last time he checked, an S63 wasn't in the software he had. I saw your post on BMW coding.com and I've gotten the link to download Rheingold/ISTA/D, but I've never used it before, not sure if it's compatible with any of the heads I have now, etc so I'm just going to wait until I get the car back and then just play with things to see what it looks like. I've coded simple things using an $8 bluetooth dongle and the Torque for Android app to do things like allow me to roll the windows up via remote, power fold the mirrors when locking/unlocking the car, triple blinking hazards, but I know I need a real laptop/handheld device so I can code things like DVD in motion, getting rid of seatbelt chimes, etc.

[xpl0sive]

Did the bmw tech have any special tools to get the fuel likes off? I don't really want to spend $600 on the tool kit from AGA

[m5james]

Good news for today...it was in fact the FRM that failed due to voltage spikes, they tried installing a new one they had and it failed too! Apparently BMW is treating these things like the injectors...we know they're screwed up, but use old stock first, then we'll send out new, updated stock when ordering more. I was gonna get it back tomorrow, instead it'll be Friday, but the good news is they're tying it into the windshield replacement based on the sensors I have up there as to why it's shorting and will be replacing those as well.

He said those tools aren't necessary. I've uploaded what little pics I took and then screenshots from AllData that another BMW buddy sent me onto Dropbox, so feel free to look. I'd already had the some of the vacuum lines (as needed) removed that went over the exhaust manifold, exhaust manifold cover off, the one piece bridge over the manifold as well as the two piece bridge going over the turbo charge pipes and the PCV line going over it. The truck had been sitting untouched for a few days, but disconnected the battery to be sure since each time the doors are opened, it wakes the computer and primes the fuel pump...point being is there was no built up pressure at that time. He disconnected the wiring boxes above the injectors, flipped them forward and bungee corded them outta the way, disconnected some of the hard plastic vacuum lines (just kinda remove things as needed)

Once you're ready to remove the injectors, you'll see that the hard lines to them are like am upside down J-shape, he only disconnected them at the injector and put a gummy tape at the bottom of the J so the nuts wouldn't drop all the way down to the fuel rail. He'd bow them outta the way just enough that they'd clear the injectors, used a 14mm on the nut of the injector, just turned/wiggled the whole injector and then used a pry/crowbar to pop out the ones that didn't come out freely. Somehow tons of stuff connected within the hole, it looks like the prior owner used this as an actual SUV because there was mud, pine needles, etc caked around the injector itself so we blew everything out with compressed air, then install one injector at a time, remembering that once the cap is removed from the tip of the injector that you've got about 5 min before the teflon expands.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/leku8cif4...lbtq2dJha?dl=0