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      06-22-2017, 11:42 AM   #1
JoeyBimX5din
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Transfer Case Fluid

So am I reading this correctly, our TC's use 75w Gear oil for transfer case fluid?

If that is the case, hot diggity damn, you have no idea how much of that stuff I have. I literally have been giving it away from years. I will flush my TC as much as I change my oil.
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      06-22-2017, 11:46 AM   #2
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Correct. I change mine annually but choose to run the BMW stuff.
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      06-22-2017, 05:30 PM   #3
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Sweet. I have over 5 gallons of 75W full synthetic gear oil laying around. Thank you heavy truck transmission work, your horrible hours of bull work has finally paid off.
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      06-22-2017, 06:17 PM   #4
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Make sure it's GL-4 rated and not GL-5 or GL-4/GL-5.
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      06-23-2017, 06:44 AM   #5
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I have also used only the OEM stuff.
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      06-24-2017, 09:17 AM   #6
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BMW TCs have a wet clutch inside. So most likely something is added to the gear oil to work with the clutches. Much like a LSD differential. Since it only takes 1 quart I use the OEM fluid.
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      06-24-2017, 01:04 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335dsleeper View Post
Correct. I change mine annually but choose to run the BMW stuff.
Annually?? talk about waste...
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      06-24-2017, 02:03 PM   #8
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Yea man, talk about it...

We put 40-50k on our X5 a year.


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Originally Posted by smyles View Post
Annually?? talk about waste...

Last edited by 335dsleeper; 06-24-2017 at 02:41 PM..
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      06-24-2017, 04:20 PM   #9
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If it's mostly highway mileage, 100k interval would be too often. But I respect your choice.
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      06-24-2017, 05:00 PM   #10
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We drive a lot and have no plans of replacing the X5 until the X7 is released. We have just under 190k and haven't had any mechanical failures, no odd vibrations or noises from the diffs etc.

I do the F&R diff, transfer case and transmission fluids at least once a year. Oil every 5-7500 but have went as long as 12k. I tow more than most, prob 2-3k miles a summer.

It's cheap and easy maintenance, I also have a lift in my barn, which makes it rather convenient. The $315 spent annually to change the diff fluid, transfer case fluid and transmission filter/ fluid is worth it in my opinion.

ZF fluid and filter in the transmission
Amsoil in the Differentials
BMW X-drive fluid in the transfer case.

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If it's mostly highway mileage, 100k interval would be too often. But I respect your choice.

Last edited by 335dsleeper; 06-25-2017 at 07:58 AM..
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      06-25-2017, 07:20 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smyles View Post
Annually?? talk about waste...
Its cheap, the TC's are weak, I disagree, I think this is good practice.

I dont drive mine as much as his, and I may do the same, its what 20 dollars, vs a 1,000 $ transfer case?
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      06-25-2017, 07:21 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335dsleeper View Post
We drive a lot and have no plans of replacing the X5 until the X7 is released. We have just under 190k and haven't had any mechanical failures, no odd vibrations or noises from the diffs etc.

I do the F&R diff, transfer case and transmission fluids at least once a year. Oil every 5-7500 but have went as long as 12k. I tow more than most, prob 2-3k miles a summer.

It's cheap and easy maintenance, I also have a lift in my barn, which makes it rather convenient. The $315 spent annually to change the diff fluid, transfer case fluid and transmission filter/ fluid is worth it in my opinion.

ZF fluid and filter in the transmission
Amsoil F&R in the Differentials
BMW X-drive fluid in the transfer case.
My synthetic rotella spirax 75w synthetic fluid is GL5, I may do the diffs with the shell stuff, that should work fine, guess I will have to buy some of the BMW TC stuff. Is there enough room under the truck to squeeze the quart or 2 into the TC with a long neck cap that come on a lot of differential fluid sold?
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      06-25-2017, 07:55 AM   #13
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Yea, stay away from the GL-5. Not good for some of material inside the transfer case.

I have a little hand pump I use. The fill hole is kind of hard to get to. I do not think you'll be able to fit a bottle up there. Maybe if you put a hose on the tip and squeeze it in. The hand pumps are cheap though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeyBimX5din View Post
My synthetic rotella spirax 75w synthetic fluid is GL5, I may do the diffs with the shell stuff, that should work fine, guess I will have to buy some of the BMW TC stuff. Is there enough room under the truck to squeeze the quart or 2 into the TC with a long neck cap that come on a lot of differential fluid sold?
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      06-25-2017, 05:33 PM   #14
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they are. I may buy one of those pressure evacuators, Ive been meaning to get one for this kind of thing.
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      06-26-2017, 05:30 AM   #15
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This is what I use. It works pretty good but, as it ages the lines don't fit as snug and I've had a line pop off as I was filling, which can make a mess.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0082...UIL&ref=plSrch
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      06-27-2017, 02:45 PM   #16
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Hi,

Didn't mean to hijack this thread but since the topic is around transfer case

I am trying to change my transfer case fluid and I have a hard time getting the fill plug off.

There is hardly any space there.

I searched the forums and see people have recommended using metric hex wrench connection.

Any other alternate tools that you suggest? I tried popping the hex bit off from my regular socket and I can't do that. Did anyone try that? If so any inputs on it. Please note I am a DIY and dont have too many tools/setup at home.

Thanks in advance
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      06-28-2017, 11:54 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smassey321 View Post
BMW TCs have a wet clutch inside. So most likely something is added to the gear oil to work with the clutches. Much like a LSD differential. Since it only takes 1 quart I use the OEM fluid.
Correct me if im wrong?, so just 1 quart of 75W from BMW make sure its GL-4? and 2 quarts I guess Red Line. Mobil 1 90-140W or Amsoil for the differentials?

Im gonna do mine sometimes this summer.
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      06-29-2017, 10:12 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironmanion View Post
Hi,

Didn't mean to hijack this thread but since the topic is around transfer case

I am trying to change my transfer case fluid and I have a hard time getting the fill plug off.

There is hardly any space there.

I searched the forums and see people have recommended using metric hex wrench connection.

Any other alternate tools that you suggest? I tried popping the hex bit off from my regular socket and I can't do that. Did anyone try that? If so any inputs on it. Please note I am a DIY and dont have too many tools/setup at home.

Thanks in advance
no worries, I believe our discussion has concluded mostly anyway.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...rench/ecst007/

I believe this will do what you need to do.

I wouldn't recommend this to the non professional mechanic, but I tend to use impact wrenches when removing some drain plugs that fight me. When I changed my 50i oil, the last person to tighten the drain plug must not have understand there is such a thing as 'over-torqued'. I had to use my 3/8th electric to get it loose, couldn't get it to budge by hand in the space I had with the tools I had. I put it back by hand, but did not go crazy tight
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1995 BMW 540i6 - H&R Lowering Springs, Bilstein's, Racing Dynamics Bars, Catback, Short shifter

Last edited by JoeyBimX5din; 06-29-2017 at 10:17 AM..
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      07-01-2017, 06:37 PM   #19
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Is anyone resetting the T-case when they do this? The main thing that has prevented me from doing the tcase so far is that I've been told you need coding software to reset the tcase.
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      07-01-2017, 07:33 PM   #20
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I haven't yet, mainly because I haven't had time to figure out the Rheingold software.

As far as I know, it's just a fluid monitor. I've changed my transfercase fluid a few times without issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jandref321 View Post
Is anyone resetting the T-case when they do this? The main thing that has prevented me from doing the tcase so far is that I've been told you need coding software to reset the tcase.
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      07-02-2017, 10:39 AM   #21
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They could be related to AWD input function, like how power is applied to each wheel through the TC. If it is a smart AWD system, the reset may be for how the system distributes power, or it could be for fluid life. I wouldn't not change the fluid because you don't have a way to reset the computer. I would think an indy shop wouldn't charge to much to just hook up and reset it, maybe an hours labor at tops
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      07-04-2017, 08:09 PM   #22
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Thank you for that info.

I will I will update you after the drain and refill.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeyBimX5din View Post
no worries, I believe our discussion has concluded mostly anyway.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...rench/ecst007/

I believe this will do what you need to do.

I wouldn't recommend this to the non professional mechanic, but I tend to use impact wrenches when removing some drain plugs that fight me. When I changed my 50i oil, the last person to tighten the drain plug must not have understand there is such a thing as 'over-torqued'. I had to use my 3/8th electric to get it loose, couldn't get it to budge by hand in the space I had with the tools I had. I put it back by hand, but did not go crazy tight
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