X5M Ownership Difficulty: Reduced Power Engine Malfunction

[Thecastle]

Originally Posted by pipsniperr

X5m quote for labor on repairing
Parts supplied.

- r&r vacuum pump
- r&r associated vacuum lines
- r&r 2 boost solenoids

$1480 labor only from Independent shop.

Seems a little high to me.

Thoughts ?

I had my dealer install the boost solenoids I purchased about $180 for the pair and they charged me 2hrs of labor to replace (215/hr) I think that is probably a fair price, but you might negotiate a little and provide your own parts. They also installed my 90c thermostat for 1 hr.

[Thecastle]

As for at-205 it’s the number of hours the engine has run. Generally after about 5 hours it should make a difference if it’s going to. If the seals are torn your sol.

[mr____p]

Originally Posted by Thecastle

I had my dealer install the boost solenoids I purchased about $180 for the pair and they charged me 2hrs of labor to replace (215/hr) I think that is probably a fair price, but you might negotiate a little and provide your own parts. They also installed my 90c thermostat for 1 hr.

The 1480 was just labor I have all the parts.

[Thecastle]

Yeah 7 hours labor maybe a bit high, but not out of the ball park.

[mr____p]

Just dropped the car off at the indy shop with the parts.

Wish me luck guys. Hopefully these codes go away and I get my boost back!

It should be done by 6pm tomorrow.

As far as smoking, still smokes, visbly less. But its def not been 5 hours of run time. Maybe at most 1-2 hours max. I reset the hrs in iDrive, and will keep you guys posted!

[mr____p]

Just got the word form the independent shop that

The new vacuum pump, the new boost solenoids installed, with the new lines has been installed.

Unfortunately it is not getting rid of the codes/check engine light. At a standstill with this car at the moment.

Not sure what the next move is.

$500 In parts $1500 in labor
$2000 down the drain

[TwinSnailz]

And what is the code now?
Low boost could be commonly cause by blown/leaking diverter valve. If you can turn 3 screws well 5 to be exact(the 2 clamps for the air filter box) you can change these out easily. Cost for each is around $60 each. Much cheaper guess than throwing thousands for dealer/shop guess.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by pipsniperr

Just got the word form the independent shop that

The new vacuum pump, the new boost solenoids installed, with the new lines has been installed.

Unfortunately it is not getting rid of the codes/check engine light. At a standstill with this car at the moment.

Not sure what the next move is.

$500 In parts $1500 in labor
$2000 down the drain

In my first post I listed out the order to follow. Did they ever test your wastegates? Did you replace the CCV tubes? And Like Twin just said, your diverter valves should be replaced too.

But first double check the wastegates yourself, will only cost you a cheapy 20 dollar hand vacuum pump off Amazon. At -10psi they should be drum tight with no play. You can adjust them quite a bit of they are loose (eventually you need to rebuild them once they get really worm out). Super easy to access since this is a hotVee engine. Diverter valves are pretty easy to get too also since on the S63 they are remote mounted.

[mr____p]

Originally Posted by TwinSnailz

And what is the code now?
Low boost could be commonly cause by blown/leaking diverter valve. If you can turn 3 screws well 5 to be exact(the 2 clamps for the air filter box) you can change these out easily. Cost for each is around $60 each. Much cheaper guess than throwing thousands for dealer/shop guess.

I'm pretty sure the same codes.

Where are they located exactly?

[mr____p]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

In my first post I listed out the order to follow. Did they ever test your wastegates? Did you replace the CCV tubes? And Like Twin just said, your diverter valves should be replaced too.

But first double check the wastegates yourself, will only cost you a cheapy 20 dollar hand vacuum pump off Amazon. At -10psi they should be drum tight with no play. You can adjust them quite a bit of they are loose (eventually you need to rebuild them once they get really worm out). Super easy to access since this is a hotVee engine.

I forwarded a lot of those orders to follow to shop today.

There response was

" we've replaced countless amount of turbos. As we mentioned on 1st diagnosis they are worn. The bmw dealership found issues with vacuum pump,solenoids etc. I talked to you about it and told you I don't think that'll will fix it but we could replace it anyways. We have beautiful activation of the wastegates, why spend time on diverter valves,crank case and etc if we don't have issue with wastegate rod travel or activation of it. You can stop by on Monday we can chat more about it"

I sort of agree with what he says but at the same time I'm not quick to pull any triggers just yet.

Seems like both shops have absolutely no test plan for these issues, and don't have a definite answer.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by pipsniperr

I forwarded a lot of those orders to follow to shop today.

There response was

" we've replaced countless amount of turbos. As we mentioned on 1st diagnosis they are worn. The bmw dealership found issues with vacuum pump,solenoids etc. I talked to you about it and told you I don't think that'll will fix it but we could replace it anyways. We have beautiful activation of the wastegates, why spend time on diverter valves,crank case and etc if we don't have issue with wastegate rod travel or activation of it. You can stop by on Monday we can chat more about it"

I sort of agree with what he says but at the same time I'm not quick to pull any triggers just yet.

Seems like both shops have absolutely no test plan for these issues, and don't have a definite answer.

RUNNNNNNN!!! Wow they don't know what they are talking about! Diverter valves have NOTHING to do with the wastegates... They are blowoff valves that open to allow boost pressure back into the intake when you let off the throttle. When they go bad, they allow boost pressure to leak back into the low pressure side when they should be closed. Again has nothing to do with wastegates and should have been on of very first things they checked.

Replace them yourself, will take you 5min for each side. They are the electro-mechanical valves located on each tube that runs from turbo intake tubes. Google x5m diverter valves. But first test the wastegates. Mine actuated just fine too but still didn't close at -10 psi and I got the same codes you did. You can adjust them pretty easy.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Here is the simplified check list in order of number one causes for low boost codes: (this assumes the obvious check of all intake hoses are tight and in good condition)

1 - Bad CCV tubes (boost pressure leaks into atmosphere or crankcase)

2 - Worn Wastegates bushings - can adjust but eventually will need to be rebuilt.

3 - Bad Diverter Valves

4 - faulty vacuum pump/lines

5 - faulty pressure converters

6 - faulty tubing/solenoid for gas tank evap system (this has connection on drivers side lower intake manifold)

7 - bad wastegate actuators

[mr____p]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

RUNNNNNNN!!! Wow they don't know what they are talking about! Diverter valves have NOTHING to do with the wastegates... They are blowoff valves that open to allow boost pressure back into the intake when you let off the throttle. When they go bad, they allow boost pressure to leak back into the low pressure side when they should be closed. Again has nothing to do with wastegates and should have been on of very first things they checked.

Replace them yourself, will take you 5min for each side. They are the electro-mechanical valves located on each tube that runs from turbo intake tubes. Google x5m diverter valves. But first test the wastegates. Mine actuated just fine too but still didn't close at -10 psi and I got the same codes you did. You can adjust them pretty easy.

Wow, its really hard to find a good shop here in Vegas .

What you mentioned was very very interesting to me.

I noticed the light only comes on when I release the gas pedal in high boost, usuallly in 3rd gear or higher. It never goes at WOT, with gas pedal down. It only triggers the engine malfunntion light when I let off the gas pas 3k rpm in 3rd gear plus. That is really interesting statement refering to that its possible that the valve leaks boost pressure back into the low pressure side when you let of the gas. This can very well be the cause of this issue, since the light happens when I let off the gas pedal under high boost...

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Btw, I don't think you wasted money, if the pump was only doing -9psi then it's was about to fail anyway and new pressure converters at your mileage doesn't hurt. I have a gut feeling it's your CCV tubes, wastegates or diverter valves though.

[mr____p]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

Here is the simplified check list in order of number one causes for low boost codes: (this assumes the obvious check of all intake hoses are tight and in good condition)

1 - Bad CCV tubes (boost pressure leaks into atmosphere or crankcase)

2 - Worn Wastegates bushings - can adjust but eventually will need to be rebuilt.

3 - Bad Diverter Valves

4 - faulty vacuum pump/lines

5 - faulty pressure converters

6 - faulty tubing/solenoid for gas tank evap system (this has connection on drivers side lower intake manifold)

7 - bad wastegate actuators

Thank you, I will make sure to check all these before moving to the turbo R&R.

I noticed that there is an Extreme Powerhouse location here in Las Vegas, that sells S63 stage two turbos, ima give them a call and see if they have an actual store front here in which I can bring in the core's and get these bad boys if thats the true issue at hand.

[mr____p]

Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck

Btw, I don't think you wasted money, if the pump was only doing -9psi then it's was about to fail anyway and new pressure converters at your mileage doesn't hurt. I have a gut feeling it's your CCV tubes, wastegates or diverter valves though.

I appreciate your support, and everybodys help and information on here is absolutely priceless. I hope to get these issues resolved quick!

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by pipsniperr

Wow, its really hard to find a good shop here in Vegas .

What you mentioned was very very interesting to me.

I noticed the light only comes on when I release the gas pedal in high boost, usuallly in 3rd gear or higher. It never goes at WOT, with gas pedal down. It only triggers the engine malfunntion light when I let off the gas pas 3k rpm in 3rd gear plus. That is really interesting statement refering to that its possible that the valve leaks boost pressure back into the low pressure side when you let of the gas. This can very well be the cause of this issue, since the light happens when I let off the gas pedal under high boost...

Interesting, they are supposed to only open during high boost and sudden close of the throttle (otherwise the boost has nowhere to go and will blow off an intake tube) perhaps it's sticky and slow to close after and thus the code. I would just order them and replace them just to eliminate the variable. Easy and cheap enough and why I mentioned it in the top things to do.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by pipsniperr

I appreciate your support, and everybodys help and information on here is absolutely priceless. I hope to get these issues resolved quick!

No problem happy to help, keep us posted how it works out.

[Honda]

I know this is not adding anything useful to this thread but you have been trying to fix these issues close to a month now. I cannot imagine the stressful moments you have been to so far. I have been in similar situation but with lesser issues trying to diagnose starting issues. That's the reason I ended up selling the car.

Even though you got the car for cheap, I would be scared to own this car for 10K, unless you are one of the youtuber's who buy wrecked sports cars to fix them

[mr____p]

Originally Posted by Honda

I know this is not adding anything useful to this thread but you have been trying to fix these issues close to a month now. I cannot imagine the stressful moments you have been to so far. I have been in similar situation but with lesser issues trying to diagnose starting issues. That's the reason I ended up selling the car.

Even though you got the car for cheap, I would be scared to own this car for 10K, unless you are one of the youtuber's who buy wrecked sports cars to fix them

Not really stressed. It is what is is. Selling the car right now would just be a huge waste of time and effort. Plus I can't sell a car with issues, I'm not that type of guy.

Someone obviously did it to me - oh well.

At this point I'm just going to get it to where it runs without any noticeable issues, and I'll go from there.

[mightyb28]

Does anyone have the engine diagram showing the VANOS Solenoid Valve location?
For bank 2 I believe you remove the right side IC and they sit right below?

[frankenm]

Your just wasting money doing the same thing I did for years -

Only way your fixing this is to replace the turbos, get some decent catch cans, remove all plastic associated with the ccv and things should work.

I spent so much time and money fixing this and I did the work myself and it never ends better to just fix and sell honestly these are junk with things breaking and being extremely expensive to replace due to it’s one off use of many critical parts