Been a few years: Some questions on DPF/SCR delete tune options

[CrashRat]

Hi Guys and Gals, been a few years since I've been active here but we still have our 2011 35d and love it. This car has every option imaginable even up to the $1,200 stitched leather dash. I don't see us getting rid of it anytime soon.

What I'm tired of is all the emissions BS. After 138k miles and replacing SCR, NOX etc (all under TSB warranties thankfully) our DPF is finally on its way out too. Emissions is literally the only thing that has ever gone wrong with this car. So, I'm ready to drop a couple grand deleting it all.

So far I have on the way

- Rawtek midpipe
- 1320 downpipe
- flap delete

Total cost so far $920.

Where I'm a little hung up on is the tune options. My objectives are to improve performance, maintain reliability, eliminate any CEL's associated with the delete, and show OBDII readiness in case the car ever has to go through testing.

As I see them, my options are

- JR Auto
- Malone
- off-brand

What I'm most curious about for the sake of this post is who here is using an off-brand delete tune, why did you choose the one you did, and would you get the same one again? I'd really like to keep this down to $2k if possible but I'm willing to spend up to $2,500. My thinking is if one of the off-brand tunes will work for $500-600 vs JR's $1,100-$1,500 options, I would add the xhp trans tune too.

Thank you all in advance for the help!

[Nyc Dito]

Originally Posted by CrashRat

Hi Guys and Gals, been a few years since I've been active here but we still have our 2011 35d and love it. This car has every option imaginable even up to the $1,200 stitched leather dash. I don't see us getting rid of it anytime soon.

What I'm tired of is all the emissions BS. After 138k miles and replacing SCR, NOX etc (all under TSB warranties thankfully) our DPF is finally on its way out too. Emissions is literally the only thing that has ever gone wrong with this car. So, I'm ready to drop a couple grand deleting it all.

So far I have on the way

- Rawtek midpipe
- 1320 downpipe
- flap delete

Total cost so far $920.

Where I'm a little hung up on is the tune options. My objectives are to improve performance, maintain reliability, eliminate any CEL's associated with the delete, and show OBDII readiness in case the car ever has to go through testing.

As I see them, my options are

- JR Auto
- Malone
- off-brand

What I'm most curious about for the sake of this post is who here is using an off-brand delete tune, why did you choose the one you did, and would you get the same one again? I'd really like to keep this down to $2k if possible but I'm willing to spend up to $2,500. My thinking is if one of the off-brand tunes will work for $500-600 vs JR's $1,100-$1,500 options, I would add the xhp trans tune too.

Thank you all in advance for the help!

My X5D story is pretty much like yours. I have the Rawtek full delete kit and I plan on going with DUDMD for tuning once I'm out of warranty (most likely sooner). Since my days in my E38 he has been tuning and also has a tune for the M57's now. I have no experience with other tunes you mentioned on the 35d, but he has been the most responsive and helpful between the few choices I had reached out to.

Ive heard great things about both Malone and JR. I would assume whomever you go with, you will be pleased. Malone would be my second choice. The flashzilla option sounds really cool to have.

[CrashRat]

Originally Posted by Nyc Dito

My X5D story is pretty much like yours. I have the Rawtek full delete kit and I plan on going with DUDMD for tuning once I'm out of warranty (most likely sooner). Since my days in my E38 he has been tuning and also has a tune for the M57's now. I have no experience with other tunes you mentioned on the 35d, but he has been the most responsive and helpful between the few choices I had reached out to.

Ive heard great things about both Malone and JR. I would assume whomever you go with, you will be pleased. Malone would be my second choice. The flashzilla option sounds really cool to have.

Oh yeah, thanks - I had forgotten about DudMD. They are right in my backyard about 1.5 hours away. Seems well-reviewed and 1/2 the cost of JR Auto. Going to inquire now re: CEL/readiness concerns. Will post their response.

[CrashRat]

Originally Posted by CrashRat

Oh yeah, thanks - I had forgotten about DudMD. They are right in my backyard about 1.5 hours away. Seems well-reviewed and 1/2 the cost of JR Auto. Going to inquire now re: CEL/readiness concerns. Will post their response.

Had a great and very prompt dialogue with Dimitriy at DudMD. His setup does everything I want it to do so I went ahead and paid him. Total cost so far is much cheaper than I was expecting, with the tune I'm into it for $1,564. I think I'm going to get all that put on and make sure it works before doing the trans tune too.

Looking forward to unleashing some more power out of this thing!

[CrashRat]

Originally Posted by RL18

Xhp trans tune is definitely a must once you tune. It really helps to tighten things up as far as shifting goes.

Thanks for confirming your experiences and for recommending the Xhp trans tune as well. I'm a longtime gas guy and this is my first foray into diesel tech. I really appreciate the willingness to help me figure some of these options out!

[RL18]

Originally Posted by CrashRat

Thanks for confirming your experiences and for recommending the Xhp trans tune as well. I'm a longtime gas guy and this is my first foray into diesel tech. I really appreciate the willingness to help me figure some of these options out!

No problem

Once you delete the emissions, the maintenance become much easier.

Also as far as maintenance what have you done? I made the mistake of not doing the prerequisites to my 335d and ended up having some down time to get it 100%, so my x5d is getting the maintenance beforehand so I can enjoy it fully

[CrashRat]

Originally Posted by RL18

No problem

Once you delete the emissions, the maintenance become much easier.

Also as far as maintenance what have you done? I made the mistake of not doing the prerequisites to my 335d and ended up having some down time to get it 100%, so my x5d is getting the maintenance beforehand so I can enjoy it fully

Yeah, my maintenance schedule hasn't been particularly robust unfortunately so I am preparing for a few surprises once I get into it. I've handled everything that throws a code as soon as it comes up, replaced brakes and basics like that but at 132k it's still running on the original glow plugs, belts, etc. So on top of the $1,600-ish for delete goodies I also have about $400 in regular maintenance parts coming. We'll see what else I run into once I get it up in the air and start digging into it. This will be my first major service on the new lift I just installed a few months ago.

[RL18]

Originally Posted by CrashRat

Yeah, my maintenance schedule hasn't been particularly robust unfortunately so I am preparing for a few surprises once I get into it. I've handled everything that throws a code as soon as it comes up, replaced brakes and basics like that but at 132k it's still running on the original glow plugs, belts, etc. So on top of the $1,600-ish for delete goodies I also have about $400 in regular maintenance parts coming. We'll see what else I run into once I get it up in the air and start digging into it. This will be my first major service on the new lift I just installed a few months ago.

Some common things at your mileage would be a harmonic dampener, you can check for cracks on the HD. It's left me stranded before. It's a good idea refresh the whole belt system if you decide to replace the HD, like upgrade to clutched alternator pulley, change both belts, change idler pulley, thermostat, water pump. You can delete the egr while you're in there. Just zip tie the egr valve off to the side, and install an egr race pipe.

Then your vacuum lines might need to be replaced, as well as two boost solenoids, if you delete you'll need two EUVs since the other two will be eliminated. Upgraded vacuum lines are available too, which should last longer than oem.

Check for CBU, by pulling the intake and checking intake.

Transmission fluid change

Diff front and rear fluid change and transfer case

I'm sure I'm missing some things but those are most common. Nice lift btw

[CrashRat]

Originally Posted by RL18

Some common things at your mileage would be a harmonic dampener, you can check for cracks on the HD. It's left me stranded before. It's a good idea refresh the whole belt system if you decide to replace the HD, like upgrade to clutched alternator pulley, change both belts, change idler pulley, thermostat, water pump. You can delete the egr while you're in there. Just zip tie the egr valve off to the side, and install an egr race pipe.

Then your vacuum lines might need to be replaced, as well as two boost solenoids, if you delete you'll need two EUVs since the other two will be eliminated. Upgraded vacuum lines are available too, which should last longer than oem.

Check for CBU, by pulling the intake and checking intake.

Transmission fluid change

Diff front and rear fluid change and transfer case

I'm sure I'm missing some things but those are most common. Nice lift btw

Sweet, thanks for the tips! those are hugely helpful. I do feel bad for putting it all off as long as I have but I've been devoting all my extra time to getting this shop built. Hoping the car wouldn't break before I got it at least dried in and could work out of it. That time has finally come and I'm looking forward to working on cars again for once.

one more question for you please. Where I come from in the VW world they actually say the trans and diff fluids are a "lifetime" fluid and only needs to be changed if there is a repair necessitating a pan drop or if contamination is suspected. Is that not the case on these drive trains?

[RL18]

Originally Posted by CrashRat

Sweet, thanks for the tips! those are hugely helpful. I do feel bad for putting it all off as long as I have but I've been devoting all my extra time to getting this shop built. Hoping the car wouldn't break before I got it at least dried in and could work out of it. That time has finally come and I'm looking forward to working on cars again for once.

one more question for you please. Where I come from in the VW world they actually say the trans and diff fluids are a "lifetime" fluid and only needs to be changed if there is a repair necessitating a pan drop or if contamination is suspected. Is that not the case on these drive trains?

No problem! I've been through it all pretty much twice now.

This is the most informative thing Ive read on our transmissions: http://www.bavlogic.com/?p=3738

Basically I'm looking for the signs in that article of a bad trans in both my 335d and x5d and they have been alright so far... 140k miles on my 335d and 100k miles on my x5d.

As far as changing the fluid as preventative maintenance, zf says every 50k miles to change fluid and filter. I personally haven't done this yet unfortunately because I need more time, and bringing to an indy shop is not an option since I got quoted $850

[CrashRat]

Originally Posted by RL18

No problem! I've been through it all pretty much twice now.

This is the most informative thing Ive read on our transmissions: http://www.bavlogic.com/?p=3738

Basically I'm looking for the signs in that article of a bad trans in both my 335d and x5d and they have been alright so far... 140k miles on my 335d and 100k miles on my x5d.

As far as changing the fluid as preventative maintenance, zf says every 50k miles to change fluid and filter. I personally haven't done this yet unfortunately because I need more time, and bringing to an indy shop is not an option since I got quoted $850

Interesting. I haven't read the whole article yet - keep getting sidetracked - but one of my VWs had a ZF trans that I had to replace one of the solenoids in at about 80k. symptom was hard shift from 1-2. The job was messy but relatively easy. $80 for the valve and $25 for the pan seal. I re-used the fluid.

I'll finish reading this article over the weekend. Looks like I do need to plan for some trans maintenance too. Thanks again for pointing me to it!

[CrashRat]

Well, I'm getting busy with it. The first weekend resulted in plenty of parts on the ground. All the rest of the parts show up this week so hopefully by the end of next weekend it'll be ready to rip again. I'm thinking I will probably get the underside all put back together then attack the front and top stuff later. that list includes accessory belts + balancer, and I have the walnut blast kit coming too. at 132k miles we have had no drivability issues but it's also never been done before so going to plan on it while doing the flap delete.

Very thankful I have a lift to work from! My hat's off to you guys who have done this job with jack stands and creepers. Wow.

[CrashRat]

Intake wasn't nearly as bad as I expected. Just under 133k miles on the clock and we have owned it since 60k. To my knowledge this is the first time it's been de-CBU'd. We drive a lot of highway miles so I imagine that is probably what helped keep it down.

I had the intake solvent soaked at a machine shop yesterday for $20. DudMD did the tune yesterday as well. Walnut blaster shipment got delayed until Monday unfortunately so that sets me a little behind. Going to dig into the belts balancer and water pump tonight. Hoping I can basically have it all put back together by the weekend except the intake.

[CrashRat]

Finally getting to the fun part where parts actually get to go back on the car now. Got the piles separated into bits that go back on vs. bits that don't, got the exhaust welded up (using stainless MIG), and ready for more today. by the end of the weekend I'm hoping all that's left is walnut blasting the intake. That setup will arrive on Tues. The car has been down longer than I originally hoped but with COVID nothing seems to be shipping on time anymore.

The whole scope of this service is

- emissions delete (done & re-assembled)
- CBU (mostly done)
- front belts/pulleys (just getting started)