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      05-21-2016, 05:46 PM   #1
Neeks55
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Looking for Downpipes or exhaust for X5m/X6m

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Looking to buy Downpipes/exhaust for my x6m

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      05-22-2016, 12:52 PM   #2
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I did this for free until the ///M tax goes away.
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'10 BMW X5///M - Alpine White on Sakhir Orange - JB4 w/ HCP Stage 2 BEF, NGK 97506 @ .20, SS tubing & BMC filters, gutted cats, AC Forged 312 22's, H&R 2"
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      09-07-2016, 10:07 PM   #3
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I got you.
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      09-08-2016, 12:42 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m5james View Post
I did this for free until the ///M tax goes away.
Not a bad idea. Its robbery what we have to pay for downpipes
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      09-08-2016, 12:42 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ehodzic6 View Post
I got you.
Have a set you're looking to sell?
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      09-12-2016, 12:30 AM   #6
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Just curious, how is this different than any of the pipe they sell online?
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      09-12-2016, 11:31 PM   #7
m5james
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When gutting the cats, there's a big chamber where the catalytic converter material once was. Aftermarket downpipes will provide a more consistent path of airflow. My logic in doing this was simply...if I get a 15hp gain for free vs a 20hp for $1500, I'll settle on 15hp for free. Nevertheless I'm borrowing a set of aftermarket downpipes from a friend to see if it helps resolve my Reduced Power warning and/or feels any different, but I doubt it will.
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'10 BMW X5///M - Alpine White on Sakhir Orange - JB4 w/ HCP Stage 2 BEF, NGK 97506 @ .20, SS tubing & BMC filters, gutted cats, AC Forged 312 22's, H&R 2"
'98 BMW 740iL - ///E39 M5 6spd swap, fully built engine (sleeved, P&P, cams), 3.46 LSD, H&R Stage 2/Bilstein HD, Magnaflow 14816's
'97 BMW 328ci - ///E36 M3 clutch & L/W flywheel, Z4///M 18's
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      09-13-2016, 07:21 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m5james View Post
When gutting the cats, there's a big chamber where the catalytic converter material once was. Aftermarket downpipes will provide a more consistent path of airflow. My logic in doing this was simply...if I get a 15hp gain for free vs a 20hp for $1500, I'll settle on 15hp for free. Nevertheless I'm borrowing a set of aftermarket downpipes from a friend to see if it helps resolve my Reduced Power warning and/or feels any different, but I doubt it will.
Yeah I agree with the price being steep. You'll definitely net slightly more hp with aftermarket downpipes because of the smoother flow, but its a tough price to pay. I decided to go with the Ultimate Racing downpipes. $1k and they do the exact same thing as the AA/Akrapovic downpipes

I also have a check engine light/Reduced Power warning. It only happens under heavy acceleration and goes away once I turn the car off then back on. The car was at the dealer for nearly a week last week for them to diagnose it as an "exhaust leak" in the cats. They wanted $2k for the OEM downpipes w/ new catalytic converters installed LOL so needless to say I'm excited for my new aftermarket downpipes to get here. I'm also really hoping it'll get rid of this exhaust leak/ check engine light.
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      09-13-2016, 07:40 PM   #9
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That's nuts and likely a bullshit diagnosis.

In regards to my own truck, I'm more inclined to think it's a vacuum leak from either the 90k brittle CCV/PCV lines (I've only replaced #3 on the LH picture and everything on the RH picture) and/or the rats nest of vacuum lines. My truck is a raped beast for about the first 15 min of my commute, then anytime after that I get the warning and a noticeable less kick seeing as I drive it hard all the time.

Either way, there are gaskets at the top and bottom of the downpipes if you're already in there. Search realoem.com for the part numbers.
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'10 BMW X5///M - Alpine White on Sakhir Orange - JB4 w/ HCP Stage 2 BEF, NGK 97506 @ .20, SS tubing & BMC filters, gutted cats, AC Forged 312 22's, H&R 2"
'98 BMW 740iL - ///E39 M5 6spd swap, fully built engine (sleeved, P&P, cams), 3.46 LSD, H&R Stage 2/Bilstein HD, Magnaflow 14816's
'97 BMW 328ci - ///E36 M3 clutch & L/W flywheel, Z4///M 18's

Last edited by m5james; 09-13-2016 at 09:20 PM..
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      09-16-2016, 04:14 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m5james View Post
That's nuts and likely a bullshit diagnosis.

In regards to my own truck, I'm more inclined to think it's a vacuum leak from either the 90k brittle CCV/PCV lines (I've only replaced #3 on the LH picture and everything on the RH picture) and/or the rats nest of vacuum lines. My truck is a raped beast for about the first 15 min of my commute, then anytime after that I get the warning and a noticeable less kick seeing as I drive it hard all the time.

Either way, there are gaskets at the top and bottom of the downpipes if you're already in there. Search realoem.com for the part numbers.
Thats a shit load of vacuum lines!
it looks as if it'd be better to just replace all of those lines if somethings wrong with just one of them. But I'm sure it'd be expensive...

I'm bringing my truck to a shop called MRF Engineering in Los Angeles. The mechanic/owner is named Malek. He's got a pretty great reputation here on Bimmerpost. He's going to help re diagnose this and try to figure out whats wrong. From what I've described to him so far, he says it sounds like there might be something wrong with the ignition coil/packs.

I think its best to solve this "reduced power" problem before I install the downpipes and tune. Just got my downpipes and PTP turbo blanket in the mail. Pretty upset that this check engine light is putting a hold on the modding for now
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      09-16-2016, 06:28 PM   #11
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Measuring the ID of the vacuum lines is the only thing that's stopped me from replacing them, but ultimately high temp silicone vacuum line isn't really that expensive at all. If anything I'm only slightly worried about routing and the lines touching anything since I plan on using bulk line vs factory line that's molded.

I'm curious how they'll diagnose coil packs because I'm getting no misfire codes and I've replaced the plugs. I know M5 guys say they recommend to replace the coils and plugs like every 30k, but that seems excessive to me since we're not pushing the numbers they are. I installed injectors I got from Rock Auto and then BMW finally released the recall like a month later so I'm still torn as to if that might be my issue as well. Either way I'm curious as to what you find out and please post her AND on the specific thread that was created in regards to reduced power warnings.

Meh, you've already got the CEL so I'd throw the parts on anyways if it was me since what you're adding isn't directly related. If anything you're already going to have the truck down for upgrades so you might as well do some maintenance at the same time.
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      09-17-2016, 04:27 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TreyB View Post
I also have a check engine light/Reduced Power warning. It only happens under heavy acceleration and goes away once I turn the car off then back on.
This is also happening to my truck, I realized it happens more often if the truck is not up to temp and I get on it...once I shut it off and restart it it's fine. I have the AA stage 2+ tune and the AA dp's, I'm curious to see what you find out, I'm tired of pulling over to the side of the road and restarting the truck
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      09-17-2016, 04:54 AM   #13
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Mine is the other way around...it takes about 15 min of driving before mine happens, which leads me to believe it's a vacuum issue.

Shit, as long as I'm in a straight, I'll shift to neutral, shut it off, back on again, then back into D. A couple of times I've done it in a slight corner and it'll give me a temporary active suspension warning. Sadly I do this probably once a day.
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      09-17-2016, 01:52 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cattivo View Post
This is also happening to my truck, I realized it happens more often if the truck is not up to temp and I get on it...once I shut it off and restart it it's fine. I have the AA stage 2+ tune and the AA dp's, I'm curious to see what you find out, I'm tired of pulling over to the side of the road and restarting the truck
My issue is very similar to yours. I have a Awron DGA guage that I use to monitor my temps and I've noticed that when the temps are low and I get on the throttle too hard it'll throw the reduced power warning. However when all the temps are up, it doesn't happen nearly as often. In fact, it hasn't happened in about a week since now I ALWAYS let the car heat up all the way before going past even a 1/4 throttle.

I'm scheduled to replace the ignition coils & spark plugs next week. While they're in there I'm going to have them check the vacuum lines to see if they notice any cracks or leaks or anything obvious. I think I'm going to wait to install the downpipes and tune and see if I can figure out why I'm getting this check engine light. I'll keep you guys updated. I'll probably start a new thread about it as well
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      09-17-2016, 02:08 PM   #15
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Do you have a tune and what boost levels does your Awron gauge run? Before starting a new thread and spreading the information thinner, why not keep it consolidated to one thread for all our sake.

http://www.xbimmers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1260684
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