Quote:
Originally Posted by Thecastle
That would be the way to go on a D, delete the emissions! No problem on styling! Both the diesel and X5M will be expensive to own. The reason I purchased a X5M instead of a a 35d was I wanted a basically loaded e70. I wanted the multi-contour seats with message, adaptive drive (really improves handling), upgraded sound system, comfort access, and etc. It turned out to be really hard to find an E70 35D with all of those features and reasonable mileage. With the M, you basically get a loaded car so it made the search a lot easier. I would definitely buy a diesel again in spite of how troublesome it was, but I don't mind high maintenance cars. The biggest downside of an e70 is they are kind of creaky so they aren't the quietest.
Actually I'd tell you my 335d cost more than the M to keep running so far. I'd estimate about 40K in repairs on the 335D, then another few K to tune, delete the EGR cooler with a race pipe install, a/c failure and other misc parts. It was more like a 43-45K car. I purchased the 2011 335D with 28K miles and parted with it at around 80K. I do miss that car it was really fun to drive.
335D repairs (under warranty)
2x DPF replacements
2x CBU cleanings
2x SCR tanks
1x SCR Metering Device
4x EGR coolers
4x EGR valves
8x NOx sensors
4x MAF sensors
DDE replaced under warranty
FRM
DPF converter lines
Replaced (on my dime did not have extended warranty and does not include mods)
AC compressor/AC Condenser
Vacuum Lines
Red boost hose for leaking
Thermostat
Belt tensioner pulley
Harmonic Balancer with Fluid Damper (mistake)
Belts 2x
Battery
Turbo oil lines for leaking (very common issue)
Head light leveling mechanism
The X5M I purchased with 40K miles in 2017 1 owner. It now has 62K miles. Its probably had about 30K in repairs all covered by my extended warranty.
Engine Partition (common on all E70s)
Turbo Coolant Lines
Alternator
Battery
Turbo oil return block seal
Valve Cover Gasket
Rear Main seal 2x (41K and at 60K) very common X5M failure
PCV Vent Pipes
Filtered Air Ducts (2x due to cracking)
MAP sensors (there are 4 of them)
Pneumatic Pressure Converters (both turbos)
Oil Pan Gaskets
Turbo Oil Lines
Evaporator (quite expensive) and very common E70 failure
Tank pressure pump 2x
Charcoal Filter canister
accessory power ports broke
Things I expect to fail on the M
parking brake
sunroof vent function
heater control valve
oil leaks
power rear hatch struts
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All those warrantee repairs should have been fixed on the first occurrence. Bad shop or dealer. Just my opinion as I've repaired the emissions system on my X5d when I first got mine. The SCR tanks had some weaknesses, for sure. Each tank did not have parts available to fix them. Now the common failure parts are available since they were used in other brand diesels. If you are a DIY person, the SCR tanks can be probably be fixed by you and it's not too bad. At 100k any car will need some work somewhere. That is true for any car. My car's low pressure EGR pressure converter died and the vacuum lines were cracked in a couple spots. The coolant thermostat is a big weakness (for X5d). Use the cluster special menu to check the temp when warm. There are YouTube videos. It should be 88C +/-2C. If not, the thermostat is broken. Mine was. It breaks open so the car never gets constantly warm which caused the glow plugs to stay on too much and they break. Pretty common. The newer vehicles have an additional mounting point for the high pressure EGR cooler. Both EGR coolers have a bolt tightening sequence that must be followed 100% or it will break. The return spring on the HP-EGR cooler flap breaks. People (and me) use a screen door spring to the engine compartment to fix. Red neck, but effective. If you have to replace the thermostat I would just replace both belts and the tensioner and inspect the crank pulley. It the crank pulley has surface cracks you might want to change that, too. I did. To get to the glow plugs you have to remove the intake manifold. Pain but not bad. If you do that, replace all the glow plugs, the glow plug module, the LP-EGR pressure converter, and all the vacuum lines you can get to. I did. Also, if you can confirm any oil consumption that is a good idea and change the oil about every 7k. I use an oil extractor and change the filter every two oil changes. It's a twin turbo car so this is a good idea. I would also change the power steering fluid with a hand pump a couple times. It's probably never been done. You should for sure have the transmission filter and fluid changed when you get the car. This is pretty critical. Most of the above goes for both the 35i and 35d (except diesel specific stuff, of course). My door vapor barriers came unglued and the rear hatch rubber cable boots leaked and water would enter the car. Fixed it with silicone. Common for both cars. I tell everyone, if you are DIY, you will like the car and be ok with the projects. If you pay for labor or you don't know what you are doing when interacting with repair shops, I would get a Honda.
