XBimmers.com | BMW X6 Forum X5 Forum
 
TireRack





Go Back   XBimmers.com | BMW X6 Forum X5 Forum > BMW X5 Forums > General BMW X5 (E70) and X5M Forum (2006-2013)

Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      07-26-2011, 02:16 PM   #1
ApexM3
Lieutenant Colonel
ApexM3's Avatar
United_States
96
Rep
1,652
Posts

Drives: '16 M3
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: NY

iTrader: (13)

Garage List
16 BMW M3  [0.00]
Help Installing Aluminum running boards on E70

I have done some searching around on this topic and haven't found a great DIY on this. My wife has a 2007 X5 and i wanted to upgrade the looks of it by adding the aluminum running boards. I purchased the boards from a local dealer at a good price but they wanted 4-5 hours worth of labor for install. I said screw that, i will attempt on my own.

I have the instructions, but have some questions.

1) Is it necessary to punch the rivets in on the rear fenders? or can i just use this tool and pull out?

Amazon.com: Auto-Body Technician's Best Friend - No-Scratch Trim and Molding Removal Tool Kit Set: Home Improvement

2) If i use the tool, can i reuse those rivets? I read somewhere that people punching the rivets back in using this tool:

Amazon.com: Klik Plastic Rivet Setter with Pouch: Home Improvement

a) Is this tool really needed? or can i push them back in by hand.

3) I know there are a bunch of screws on the bottom of the running board that need to be removed but How do you get them out? they look like they could be turned counter clock wise? i didnt see a place to use a screw driver.

Any help is appreciated.
__________________
Current: 2019 F90 M5 Competition
Previous: 2016 F80 M3
Past: 2013 E92 M3
Past: 2011 E92 335Xi
Appreciate 0
      07-26-2011, 06:23 PM   #2
virjose
Lieutenant
56
Rep
504
Posts

Drives: 2011 E93 M3
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: San Diego, CA

iTrader: (0)

The rivets can't really be reused as you need to almost break them (or stretch them out). I will give you two pieces of advice as I just did this last week and because of it I had to uninstall them twice:

1- Assemble the aluminum trim to the plastic running board BEFORE snapping the running board back on the car. It became evident after I did it that there was no way of screwing the plate in place once the plastic piece is in place

2- Look closely in the box of contents and you will find four pieces of hard styrofoam black in color and very sturdy, these need to go BETWEEN the aluminum trim and the plastic trim. If you skip this step the black rubber dimples on the board will sink in when you stand on them. I found this out too late and had to disassemble both sides

Hope this helps! If it had not been for these issues I would have been done in 1.5hrs by myself, so it is ridiculous how dealers are quoting 4hrs for labor (that's what they quoted me)
Appreciate 0
      07-27-2011, 09:07 AM   #3
ApexM3
Lieutenant Colonel
ApexM3's Avatar
United_States
96
Rep
1,652
Posts

Drives: '16 M3
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: NY

iTrader: (13)

Garage List
16 BMW M3  [0.00]
Quote:
Originally Posted by virjose View Post
The rivets can't really be reused as you need to almost break them (or stretch them out). I will give you two pieces of advice as I just did this last week and because of it I had to uninstall them twice:

1- Assemble the aluminum trim to the plastic running board BEFORE snapping the running board back on the car. It became evident after I did it that there was no way of screwing the plate in place once the plastic piece is in place

2- Look closely in the box of contents and you will find four pieces of hard styrofoam black in color and very sturdy, these need to go BETWEEN the aluminum trim and the plastic trim. If you skip this step the black rubber dimples on the board will sink in when you stand on them. I found this out too late and had to disassemble both sides

Hope this helps! If it had not been for these issues I would have been done in 1.5hrs by myself, so it is ridiculous how dealers are quoting 4hrs for labor (that's what they quoted me)
Ah thanks for the tips! DOes the kit come with new rivets? i haven't looked in the box yet. Did you have to use a rivet gun?

Yeah i wasnt going to pay the dealer 150 an hour to do the install.. their BS'ers.
__________________
Current: 2019 F90 M5 Competition
Previous: 2016 F80 M3
Past: 2013 E92 M3
Past: 2011 E92 335Xi
Appreciate 0
      07-27-2011, 06:06 PM   #4
virjose
Lieutenant
56
Rep
504
Posts

Drives: 2011 E93 M3
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: San Diego, CA

iTrader: (0)

NO rivets, but you can grab a few at your local auto parts store (the fender trim won't fall off if you dont get them right away)
Appreciate 0
      09-11-2011, 03:53 PM   #5
randy74
New Member
0
Rep
8
Posts

Drives: 2008 X5 3.0si
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Maryland, US

iTrader: (0)

Need help install aluminum running board

I think there'll be no better instruction than the actual experience from a fellow driver who just recently did it.

I sort of have same questions about rivets. I could push in the center pin in to remove the rivets, and as you said, it could never be reused. I've tried local auto parts stores, and they don't have anything at all similar. Do you have any suggestion? (part #, brand, store?).

Did you have to completely remove the plastic fender trims? Front and back? Any tricks removing these trims?

Any tricks removing the black plastic clips under the old running board?

I hope I didn't ask too many questions.



Quote:
Originally Posted by virjose View Post
NO rivets, but you can grab a few at your local auto parts store (the fender trim won't fall off if you dont get them right away)
Appreciate 0
      09-12-2011, 10:46 AM   #6
Daddy Wagon
Private
Daddy Wagon's Avatar
United_States
6
Rep
83
Posts

Drives: 2013 550i M Sport White w/ Blk
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Arizona

iTrader: (0)

I just installed these last week on my 2011 X5d and it took less than two hours.

Only two of the rivets in each wheel well closest to the running board need to be removed. Punch out the center pin and then remove the remaining flange with pliers. When it comes time to reinstall this part, go to the local auto store and buy black christmas tree push pins. These look the same and will eliminate the need to find the originals as well as buy the special plastic rivet tool needed to install them.

As for the for the black pins under the vehicle, just pull those out with a pair of pliers. All of these contain o rings that prevent water from collecting inside the frame so make sure that you do not lose them.

The last thing you'll want to note. Once all of this plastic hardware is removed, open both doors and pull up kind of hard to remove the factory plastic rail. Basically you are pulling out about 9 push pins at once when you are doing this. Also make sure that you assemble the foam padding and aluminum step prior to attaching them to the vehicle.

It's not that bad of a project. Good luck, the finishing looks are worth the frustration!
Appreciate 0
      09-12-2011, 09:42 PM   #7
randy74
New Member
0
Rep
8
Posts

Drives: 2008 X5 3.0si
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Maryland, US

iTrader: (0)

Daddy Wagon, thank you so much for your informative post. It surely helps me with mine.

A question: was your plastic wheel well getting lose when you removed the 2 rivets as you said? Mine was pretty intact after I removed 3 rivets closest to the running board. Do I have to pull it out? Any trick for this to get lose?

I notice the rivets on the front wheel well are different from the one on the back. Does yours have the same rivets on front and back wheel wells?

Last question: do you have to apply any kind of sealing on the fixing holes on the on the vehicle body before mounting the running boards?

Thank you again for your post. I mostly appreciate it.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Daddy Wagon View Post
I just installed these last week on my 2011 X5d and it took less than two hours.

Only two of the rivets in each wheel well closest to the running board need to be removed. Punch out the center pin and then remove the remaining flange with pliers. When it comes time to reinstall this part, go to the local auto store and buy black christmas tree push pins. These look the same and will eliminate the need to find the originals as well as buy the special plastic rivet tool needed to install them.

As for the for the black pins under the vehicle, just pull those out with a pair of pliers. All of these contain o rings that prevent water from collecting inside the frame so make sure that you do not lose them.

The last thing you'll want to note. Once all of this plastic hardware is removed, open both doors and pull up kind of hard to remove the factory plastic rail. Basically you are pulling out about 9 push pins at once when you are doing this. Also make sure that you assemble the foam padding and aluminum step prior to attaching them to the vehicle.

It's not that bad of a project. Good luck, the finishing looks are worth the frustration!
Appreciate 0
      09-18-2011, 09:17 PM   #8
1_mg_1
Registered
0
Rep
2
Posts

Drives: 2022 X5
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Indy

iTrader: (0)

I just put on running boards on my 2011 x5 a couple of weeks ago and the type of rivets used in the wheel wells are called POM rivets. They cannot be reused and to remove them just push the pin in first then pry them out. You can get the exact same rivets from the dealership. I used this POM riveter from Harbor Freight with the BMW rivets and it worked perfect:

http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-ri...ets-97757.html

As far as sealant goes the older instructions show using window caulk and the newer instructions do not. The bolts that came with my kit seemed to have some sort of blue sealant under the head of the bolt but I went ahead and put window caulk in the bolt holes. Better safe than sorry and it couldn't hurt.

Also the rivets on the bottom of each side that sort of look like screws have to be pried out. To do that I used one of these:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1693&ppt=C0063

I ground down the blade on it to make it a little thinner and easier to get under those rivets.

Also I didn't have to remove any rivets in the front wheel well, just the ones in the rear wheel well specified in the instructions.

Last edited by 1_mg_1; 09-18-2011 at 09:24 PM.. Reason: more info
Appreciate 0
      09-18-2011, 10:11 PM   #9
randy74
New Member
0
Rep
8
Posts

Drives: 2008 X5 3.0si
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Maryland, US

iTrader: (0)

mgoddard1, thanks for your post. It's much clearer now about the sealing. The bolts came with my kit also have blue compound under the head.

I guess I'll give Harbor Freight a visit to look at the rivets and rivet gun. I definitely need the gun regardless of getting the rivets from the dealer or HF.

Is it easy to remove the plastic wheel well? I did try to remove it. After removing about 3 rivets, the well was still pretty intact. Do I have to pull it out to get it lose to install the new plastic running board cover? Can you elaborate a bit more of the wheel well, please? Did you only remove a few rivets to get one end of the wheel well lose? Or did you have to remove it completely?

Thank you, again.
Appreciate 0
      09-19-2011, 06:42 PM   #10
timemachine
Enlisted Member
10
Rep
46
Posts

Drives: BMW 545I, BMW X5, BMW M5 F90,
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Rhode Island

iTrader: (0)

Just did mine and it took and hour and a half at best. Could have even taken less time but kept getting interrupted. I went to auto zone and they have a shelf with all sorts of factory replacement push rivets, snaps, etc... and about 6.00 later I was done. I bought the push in rivets and they are nice and tight and look great. I think some of the threads made me think there was more to this than meets the eye but they go one in the reverse of how you took them off and even give you new hardware. Anyone who pays someone to do this is throwing away there money as it really is a piece of cake.
Appreciate 0
      09-20-2011, 09:14 AM   #11
randy74
New Member
0
Rep
8
Posts

Drives: 2008 X5 3.0si
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Maryland, US

iTrader: (0)

I did mine yesterday, and it was a very doable DIY. My experience was quite a bit cautious at first because I got 2 different lists of item of this running board RetroFit kit. One states to have sealing compound + 20 ISA screws and the other just states 10 ISA screws and no sealing. It took sometime to go back and forth with the local dealer about this and never really got it straighten out.

Anyhow, the process seems pretty complicated at first as to how to remove the wheel well with rivets, and how to put the rivets back. And are the rivets re-usable? It came much clearer when I actually put my hands into the DIY. The rivets for sure are not re-useable. However, there are other easy-to-buy from a local auto parts store or hardware store that can be used in place of those rivets. Not the exact same look but they serves the exact same purpose and are as good.

Here are my hints for those who still have questions.
1) Removing rivets on rear wheel well: Push the center pin in. It doesn't have to go all the way in, but it's not easy to know when to stop. Either way will work. When the center pin is pushed inside, use a Philip driver to pry it out. Once the center pin is pushed in, it's very easy to pry the rivets out. THERE'S NO WAY TO GET THE RIVETS OUT IF YOU DON'T PUSH THE CENTER PIN INSIDE.
2) The rear wheel well is snapped onto the fender with clips, so you will have to pull it out (not so hard, just gently pull will do). YOU ONLY HAVE TO REMOVE 2 RIVETS ON REAR WHEEL WELL TO PULL ONE END OF THE WHEEL WELL OUT. YOU ONLY GAIN ACCESS TO ONE END OF THE MAIN RUNNING BOARD TRIM AFTER PULL THE WHEEL WELL OUT. YOU DON'T HAVE TO COMPLETELY REMOVE THE WHEEL WELL. JUST REMOVE THE ONE END THAT SNAPS ONTO THE RUNNING BOARD.
3) Removing black clips under the running boards: very easy. Use a Philip driver to pry it out. VERY EASY.
4) Once you remove all the clips under the running board, TWO screws on the bottom of the rear fender and ONE screw on the bottom of the front fender need to be removed. NO NEED TO REMOVE THE WHEEL WELL IN THE FRONT.
5) Now is the hard pulling part to pull out the big running board trim. This trim is snapped onto the vehicle body with 8 clips. The front end of the trim is also attached to the body with 2 hooks. Pull the trim out in the front with 2 hooks need more strength than with the clips along the trim. You will have to manage to pull it out in the front first, then the rest is easy.
6) When you have this big running board trim removed, then removing the support inside is very easy. Just unscrew 11 screws (6 top and 5 bottom) will easily take it off.
7) As mentioned above, you are (or not) supposed to apply some sealing compound to the holes before mounting the new support part of the new aluminum running board. As I noticed, with mgoddard1's help (as said above in his thread), that the new screws come along with the kit have some blue sealant at the bottom of the head. I guess these screws are pre-sealed to simplify the DIY.
8) Putting the new aluminum running board is a little tricky. You have to align it, push it, and make sure it snaps onto the body, the rear wheel well, the front fender, etc. For me, the whole process of this DIY is a one man show. However, this last step here to put the BIG and LONG running board will be much easier if you have a helped to hold one end of the trim.
9) I found it much easier to leave the white clips off the trim when mounting it onto the body. You will have room after pushing and aligning it in place to snap these white clips on to the trim. These white clips as well as the black ones under the running board are easily pushed in place. Replacing the 3 screws (1 front on bottom of trim and 2 back under rear fender), pushing the rear wheel well back in place AND YOU'RE DONE.

AFTER ALL, THE NEW ALUMINUM RUNNING BOARDS LOOK AWESOME ON YOUR X5. GOOD LUCK.
Appreciate 0
      11-17-2011, 01:18 PM   #12
KRISPE
Registered
0
Rep
1
Posts

Drives: BMW X5
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Atlanta

iTrader: (0)

I am trying to install running boards on 2012 X5 35i. I removed all clips and screws. I am trying to pull out the running board trim but it is not coming out. The install instructions are saying 'Unclip Panel' in the front and detach panel at the clips. Wanted to see if anyone knows if anything has changed for 2012 models. Please let me know if there are any tips to unclip the panel in the front before pulling it out.
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:02 PM.




xbimmers
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST