2013 X5M Engine Failure

[laselvasurf]

Originally Posted by Dawgz

What does he charge?

$8500.

Originally Posted by quick

What kinda warranty he offers?

2 years, unlimited miles. Parts + Labor.

[pdX5M]

Originally Posted by laselvasurf

$8500.

2 years, unlimited miles. Parts + Labor.

Price doesn't seem as high as I was thinking - still far from inexpensive though! Is that for a stock rebuild or is that price with forged rods/pistons?

[ncbimma]

Welp sign me up for the failed engine club. Just got word from my shop there's metal all in my oil and a bent rod. Engine is hosed.

Was hwy driving and got ticking to tapping to rattle real quick and then limp mode. Ran Carly and saw several misfires and had it towed in.

They are quoting $25k for a used engine out back in.
Or
$37k for an in house built engine.

Chasing my Maxcare warranty now to see if there's any coverage.

Ugh...

[laselvasurf]

Originally Posted by ncbimma

Welp sign me up for the failed engine club. Just got word from my shop there's metal all in my oil and a bent rod. Engine is hosed.

Was hwy driving and got ticking to tapping to rattle real quick and then limp mode. Ran Carly and saw several misfires and had it towed in.

They are quoting $25k for a used engine out back in.
Or
$37k for an in house built engine.

Chasing my Maxcare warranty now to see if there's any coverage.

Ugh...

YIKES! Sorry to hear this! You can do much better than the $37K for a rebuild. I'm going to be in around $22K for a full rebuild by Ghassan($8.5K) and having my shop do the out/in(the rest $$) along with replacing most hoses, all gaskets and new turbos. I could of gone the used engine route for around $18K all in for a 50K miles engine, but I opted for the rebuild. I also have a warranty that's cover $16K of it, which is quite helpful. I'd go after your Maxcare warranty as I'm sure they will cover some, if not most of the repair. Again, sorry to hear about your failure. Hopefully you are able to get back on the road soon for a reasonable amount!

You can see my shop's latest post about the current state of my engine here: https://www.facebook.com/pg/jtsrtr/p...=page_internal

[TwinSnailz]

This may or may not help you guys but today I replace the oil pump since it seems like an easy task, but anyhow. Right before i pull the old one off, I checked the chain to see if it was loose since I keep hearing a rattle , whine, and tapping noise on the rear of the engine. It was soo loose that by holding the chain at the bottom of the sprocket, I can lift it about half way off the teeth. Now if the chain would have jump off the sprocket , I can see how it would get tangle and lock the motor up to a no spin.

I also checked the 2 rear cylinder rod bearing(4,8) for any play and there was none. Dropping the oil pump will get you access to these two cylinder without dropping the upper oil pan. I could have pull the rod cap to further inspect but I didn’t want to wait and order new rod bolts. While I was at it i re-torque the 2 upper oil pan bolt thats located inside. They were also loose, could explain why I have oil leak around that area.

You high miles folks ,I highly recommend at least dropping the lower oil pan and check your chain tension. Loosen the 3nut/bolt and adjusts the shim screw to a 10 mm chain slack.

New pump is in and it is QUIET! Ive been chasing this stupid rattle whine sound like forever. The old pump is from the first production and was revised twice.

[Dawgz]

Originally Posted by ncbimma

Welp sign me up for the failed engine club. Just got word from my shop there's metal all in my oil and a bent rod. Engine is hosed.

Was hwy driving and got ticking to tapping to rattle real quick and then limp mode. Ran Carly and saw several misfires and had it towed in.

They are quoting $25k for a used engine out back in.
Or
$37k for an in house built engine.

Chasing my Maxcare warranty now to see if there's any coverage.

Ugh...

Holy crap! What caused it?

What tune were you running?

[greddy91]

Originally Posted by Dawgz

Holy crap! What caused it?

What tune were you running?

Familiar story - I was on the JB4 and the diagnosis was failed injector.

Want to hear this story as well though.

If warranty won't cover it - the cost for a rebuild from Ghassan is posted. Happy to share references of my experience with him to anyone in need.

If you're going to rebuild, you might as well rebuild it to not break again.

[pdX5M]

Originally Posted by greddy91

Familiar story - I was on the JB4 and the diagnosis was failed injector.

Want to hear this story as well though.

If warranty won't cover it - the cost for a rebuild from Ghassan is posted. Happy to share references of my experience with him to anyone in need.

If you're going to rebuild, you might as well rebuild it to not break again.

What index injectors were you running when they diagnosed the issue as a failed injector?

[quick]

Don't think failed injector has anything to do with the JB4 though. Having said that, tune of course would need the vehicle to run more optimally and even a slightest compromise in injector performance would mean, disaster waiting to happen

Also, tune would surely negate any warranty work if BMW was to ever consider any assistance.

[m5james]

Originally Posted by TwinSnailz

This may or may not help you guys but today I replace the oil pump since it seems like an easy task, but anyhow. Right before i pull the old one off, I checked the chain to see if it was loose since I keep hearing a rattle , whine, and tapping noise on the rear of the engine. It was soo loose that by holding the chain at the bottom of the sprocket, I can lift it about half way off the teeth. Now if the chain would have jump off the sprocket , I can see how it would get tangle and lock the motor up to a no spin.

I also checked the 2 rear cylinder rod bearing(4,8) for any play and there was none. Dropping the oil pump will get you access to these two cylinder without dropping the upper oil pan. I could have pull the rod cap to further inspect but I didn’t want to wait and order new rod bolts. While I was at it i re-torque the 2 upper oil pan bolt thats located inside. They were also loose, could explain why I have oil leak around that area.

You high miles folks ,I highly recommend at least dropping the lower oil pan and check your chain tension. Loosen the 3nut/bolt and adjusts the shim screw to a 10 mm chain slack.

New pump is in and it is QUIET! Ive been chasing this stupid rattle whine sound like forever. The old pump is from the first production and was revised twice.

I'm at work so I can't look quickly but what's it take to drop the oil pan? I'm swapping my transmission finally this weekend and thinking about what other things I should check into since the truck has been down for 4 months so what's another few weeks to wait for parts and replace them.

That sucks about the chain...and sucks even more that we're not part of the same recall the N63 got, for which we share the same chain. Thankfully mine doesn't make any noise at 125k.

[TwinSnailz]

Originally Posted by m5james

I'm at work so I can't look quickly but what's it take to drop the oil pan? I'm swapping my transmission finally this weekend and thinking about what other things I should check into since the truck has been down for 4 months so what's another few weeks to wait for parts and replace them.

That sucks about the chain...and sucks even more that we're not part of the same recall the N63 got, for which we share the same chain. Thankfully mine doesn't make any noise at 125k.

Removing the flex plate and 25 bolts with oem Loctite lol. Impact drive gun saved my arms for sure. Oh and new gasket.
This is not the timing chain that was part of the n63 recall. Its a separate chain just for the oil pump. There’s no guide or hydraulic tensioner. Just a free float chain just like a bicycle.

[m5james]

Are the flexplate bolts reusable? I've got an impact. Trans pan gasket? I've got everything new from my last trans since I replaced everything in that before finally throwing in the towel and buying a used 17k trans for $1250 shipped.

Touche, my bad. There's an adjustment for the oil pump chain then? Any chance they have the same N54 oil pump bolt issues I've seen in person and on YouTube where the bolts just sheer? A junkyard N54 I opened up was holding its oil pump in place by only 1 of 3 bolts, the other 2 we're holding on by a hair when they came off by hand.

[TwinSnailz]

I’ve removed the flex plate many times before and had always reused the bolts with no issues. It is advised to replace. But to me it is not a critical component item if they were to come loose.

The sprocket attach to a shaft with 3x 10mm bolt. That shaft is attach to the oil pump with a reverse thread nut so it is solid. The adjustment is on the pump where the star bolt is. You just turn it out to add space between the engine and the pump to tension the chain. Read here to have a better insight https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...motor/ByI7Vf3m

[greddy91]

Originally Posted by pdX5M

What index injectors were you running when they diagnosed the issue as a failed injector?

Index 6 FTL.

[do_0b]

Same here, I started noticing a ticking noise in the engine area. Couple days later I pushed it a bit and engine light came on. Next day it was in limp mode. Brought it to the mech and said bearings spun and engine knocking. He thinks it was due to low oil but I never got any warnings. Sigh loved the truck but can't see myself getting another one now but maybe in the near future with the new design...

[laselvasurf]

Originally Posted by do_0b

Same here, I started noticing a ticking noise in the engine area. Couple days later I pushed it a bit and engine light came on. Next day it was in limp mode. Brought it to the mech and said bearings spun and engine knocking. He thinks it was due to low oil but I never got any warnings. Sigh loved the truck but can't see myself getting another one now but maybe in the near future with the new design...

Sorry to hear this. Do you plan on repairing the truck or are you giving up on it?

[do_0b]

Originally Posted by laselvasurf

Sorry to hear this. Do you plan on repairing the truck or are you giving up on it?

I gave up on it. Getting a new engine from bmw was out of the question and i didnt want to go for a rebuild just incase something else happens down the road.

[quick]

Originally Posted by do_0b

I gave up on it. Getting a new engine from bmw was out of the question and i didnt want to go for a rebuild just incase something else happens down the road.

Why not get a used engine and sell? You could have saved few dollars int he process not to mention easier to get rid off toO

[do_0b]

Originally Posted by quick

Why not get a used engine and sell? You could have saved few dollars int he process not to mention easier to get rid off toO

there was like none for sale in Canada..closest place to me that had was Michigan I believe

[pearlpower]

Originally Posted by TwinSnailz

This may or may not help you guys but today I replace the oil pump since it seems like an easy task, but anyhow. Right before i pull the old one off, I checked the chain to see if it was loose since I keep hearing a rattle , whine, and tapping noise on the rear of the engine. It was soo loose that by holding the chain at the bottom of the sprocket, I can lift it about half way off the teeth. Now if the chain would have jump off the sprocket , I can see how it would get tangle and lock the motor up to a no spin.

I also checked the 2 rear cylinder rod bearing(4,8) for any play and there was none. Dropping the oil pump will get you access to these two cylinder without dropping the upper oil pan. I could have pull the rod cap to further inspect but I didn’t want to wait and order new rod bolts. While I was at it i re-torque the 2 upper oil pan bolt thats located inside. They were also loose, could explain why I have oil leak around that area.

You high miles folks ,I highly recommend at least dropping the lower oil pan and check your chain tension. Loosen the 3nut/bolt and adjusts the shim screw to a 10 mm chain slack.

New pump is in and it is QUIET! Ive been chasing this stupid rattle whine sound like forever. The old pump is from the first production and was revised twice.

Was the noise at idle only? Or RPM related, I would think the latter. I might go ahead and replace mine when I do my oil pan gasket. Good insurance.

[TwinSnailz]

Originally Posted by pearlpower

Was the noise at idle only? Or RPM related, I would think the latter. I might go ahead and replace mine when I do my oil pan gasket. Good insurance.

A rattle tick noise like a loose chain on a bicycle kind of. But mine came along with the humming whining of the oil pump also. So the two sound was competing with each other. It was at idle only. Once you pull the pan you can check the chain right away. If you’re changing the pump then it doesn’t matter but good to know.

[ncbimma]

Confirmed 1/5 bearing/rod issue here.

Getting a newish engine (50k miles) here now. Extended warranty is covering the fix (engine and labor). Will do a bearing service prior to install.

Skirted a pricey bullet here.