BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i)
 





 

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      12-02-2014, 04:51 PM   #23
blakcat
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I got 20K out of OEM RFTS, finally get to replace those bricks. This is a DD but I like to have fun when I can, so would like the budget version to restore some firmness. Rear M3 bushings, OK. Previous threads suggested M3 front swaybar; this one says control arms. What's best bang for the buck?
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      12-02-2014, 04:58 PM   #24
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Best bang for the buck is to put some air in the tires. Then worry about the suspension if you learn to drive the car well enough to matter.
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      12-02-2014, 05:51 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blakcat View Post
I got 20K out of OEM RFTS, finally get to replace those bricks. This is a DD but I like to have fun when I can, so would like the budget version to restore some firmness. Rear M3 bushings, OK. Previous threads suggested M3 front swaybar; this one says control arms. What's best bang for the buck?
Control arms will increase grip more (more negative camber) and help steering feel a little (stiffer bushings). The swaybar will increase grip somewhat less (better camber control partly offset by more weight transfer), and increase steering feel somewhat more (slows down roll). Depends on what you want more of.

Suspension is way more complicated than most people think. Everthing interacts with everything else. Your overall safest choice is a package engineered by BMW or someone equally good, not piecemeal stuff based on random opinions from people of unknown competence here. Including mine. It's really easy to wind up with something suboptimal, or even unsafe.

The bar is cheaper.

BTW, unless you do the work yourself, and if your rear bushings are in good condition, rear bushing inserts are better BFTB than bushings.

Last edited by 128Convertibleguy; 12-02-2014 at 06:00 PM..
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      12-02-2014, 05:57 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chill Hill View Post
Lol let me clarify, I'm only driving a few miles a day BECAUSE they're so underinflated. There is only one car wash I trust near me that also has free air (I never have quarters), that is why I waited a few days to get them aired up.

I did get them aired up just earlier though. I put them at 38/42 for the "over 100mph" setting to help make them a little more stiff and it definitely helped, plus the speed limit is 80mph on the highway, so 100mph is not uncommon.
If you have a typical bicycle floor pump or maybe a neighbor with one, you can air up tires with that. Floor Pump

It takes a bit of pumping, but I've been using that at the race track for modest pressure changes for a while now. Way easier than hauling around a tank or compressor. 15-20 pumps will get you 2-4 PSI.
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      12-02-2014, 10:22 PM   #27
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[QUOTE=02rsxpilot;17021100]If you have a typical bicycle floor pump or maybe a neighbor with one, you can air up tires with that.

Wat?
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      12-03-2014, 09:16 AM   #28
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[QUOTE=135ivert;17022223]
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Originally Posted by 02rsxpilot View Post
If you have a typical bicycle floor pump or maybe a neighbor with one, you can air up tires with that.

Wat?
Is your point that this is easier than using a bike pump? Because my point was a lot of people have a bike pump laying around, so you don't need to waste quarters at a gas station to adjust air pressure. I doubt many people just randomly have one of these units at the house.

Or was your point that a $50 portable air compressor makes more sense at the track? In which case . Nevertheless, there are lots of folks that use those too with great success. However, they are still more prone to failure than a simple bike pump, and since I already own the bike pump (and a non-portable air compressor for home use), why spend the extra $50?
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      12-04-2014, 10:03 PM   #29
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[QUOTE=02rsxpilot;17023656]
Quote:
Originally Posted by 135ivert View Post

Is your point that this is easier than using a bike pump? Because my point was a lot of people have a bike pump laying around, so you don't need to waste quarters at a gas station to adjust air pressure. I doubt many people just randomly have one of these units at the house.

Or was your point that a $50 portable air compressor makes more sense at the track? In which case . Nevertheless, there are lots of folks that use those too with great success. However, they are still more prone to failure than a simple bike pump, and since I already own the bike pump (and a non-portable air compressor for home use), why spend the extra $50?
I don't track so I can't comment on that. However I do believe in using the right tool for the job. I have a bike pump for my bikes and a compressor for my vehicles. If you want to stand there and pump the hell out of a car tire - go for it. While the 135i might not be bad, my 4Runner would take forever with a bike pump just for a few PSI per tire (265/70R17).
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