X5M Powerflex Bushing DIY Race vs Street

jandref321 · 01-10-2018, 01:10 AM

Gents,

Bottom Line:

If you’re not legitimately tracking your vehicle just go for the Powerflex Street Bushings NOT the Racing Black Series Bushings.

Background:

I bought my ///M CPO and it came with Powerflex Black Series Race Bushings on the Thrust Arms and the Front and Rear Sway Bars. The ride has been pretty sporty, but the other day I offered my car to the wife to drive and she said she didn’t want to drive it to work since the ride is so rough. I was shocked, but I agreed that the ride is a little rough. I bought some Powerflex Street bushings to replace the Race bushings and install a few weeks ago.

Impressions:

The ride is still firm and stable, but softer on the torn up Hawaiian roads. I can notice a bigger difference when turning on EDC. Before I could turn it on or off but not really tell whether it was working at all. Now when I enter a corner I can immediately tell whether or not I have the EDC on sport since there is more roll. Handling still feels the same otherwise and it tracks solid and feels great on the highway. When I get off the highway I always turn off EDC since the roads are rough. Before I felt like the chassis was going to vibrate apart, but now it’s compliant and the bumps feel softer. I’m very pleased with the purchase and change…I’ve never driven an X5M on stock bushings but I hear it’s a lot softer. I may have actually gone this route but then I’d have to press stock bushings back into the thrust arms and even though this is technically a performance downgrade it still feels like an upgrade to me.

Installation:

NOTES: I believe you are supposed to lower the subframe to install the front sway bar bushings; they are very difficult to replace without lowering the subframe, but it is still doable and these directions describe how to do it. The biggest necessity for installing without lowering the subframe was using a short or shallow socket in the front and maneuvering around some oil lines. The rear sway bar bushings are insanely easy and can be done with the vehicle on the ground. I didn’t take that many pictures since I was on the clock to finish it before the wife got grumpy.

PARTS:

1 x Set of Powerflex Thrust Arm Bushings (Comes with grease)
1 x Set of Powerflex Front Sway Bar Bushings (Comes with grease)
1 x Set of Powerflex Rear Sway Bar Bushings (Comes with grease)

TOOLS:

1 x Jack
2 x Jack Stands
Wheel Blocks
1/2” Drive Breaker Bar
18mm Socket 1/2" Drive
17mm Deep Socket 1/2" Drive
3/8” Ratchet
3/8” Ratchet Extension
18mm Socket
13mm Socket 3/8” Drive
1/4" Short Socket Ratchet
13mm Short Socket 1/4" Drive
18mm Wrench
Flat Head Screw Driver
* Bushing Press Tool

STEP 1: Lift Front of Vehicle and Remove Wheels

a) Put the Parking Brake on
b) Block the rear wheels
c) Break the lugs on the front wheels using 1/2" breaker bar and 17mm Deep Socket
d) Jack up the vehicle using the center jack point
e) Place the Jack Stands under the front side jacking point jack pads
f) Lower the vehicle so that the weight is on the jack stands and remove jack
g) Remove Front Wheels and place them under the vehicle behind the jack stands

STEP 2: Replace Thrust Arm Bushings

a) Loosen screws holding forward plastic tray on vehicle using phillips head screwdriver (The screws won’t come out fully, but be held on the plastic tray)

b) Remove plastic tray and inspect for leaks (You may find an oil leak or coolant leak that needs to be addressed, if you find nothing then just clean it for next time)

c) Loosen and remove bolt holding the thrust arm in place at the subframe (This is the bushing side NOT the ball joint side) using a 18mm socket on the nut facing toward the inside of the vehicle and a 18mm socket, 1/2" adapter, and breaker bar on the outward facing bolt. (Once you loosen the bolt with the breaker bar switch to a ratchet; the bolt is a pain to remove due to plastic in the way; you can remove this plastic but I just pressed up on it and pulled the bolt out)

d) Remove old bushing (If you have stock bushings this is where you use the bushing press tool. Ensure that the threads are greased up and you are using an appropriately sized press.)
e) Clean the interior of the thrust arm and file down any sharp edges around the outside of the hole.
f) Install one half of the Powerflex bushings ensuring that the arrow on the bushing lines up with the arrow on the thrust arm.
g) Install the other half of the bushing, lining up the interior halves and pushing them together.
h) Lubricate the interior of the combined bushing with supplied grease (This is silicon grease, I have read that marine grease at your local autostore is the best alternative if you need to regrease)
i) Push the metal tube into the bushing
j) Reinstall the thrust arm onto the subframe with the bolt and nut using 18mm wrench and 18mm Socket and ratchet DO NOT TIGHTEN DOWN (This can be difficult to reinstall since the bolt is a pain to line up and get in then a pain to line up the on the other side)
k) Load the suspension using a jack under the wheel hub until the vehicle begins to lift off of the jack stands (Don’t let it lift all the way off the jack stand, this is only to simulate the vehicle being on the ground)
l) Torque down the bolt securing the thrust arm to the subframe using 18mm wrench and 18mm socket, 1/2" adapter, and breaker bar (I am unsure of the actual torque setting, I’ve been doing these by feel based on removal)
m) Release the jack
n) Repeat steps C-M for other side of vehicle

STEP 3: Replace Front Sway Bar Bushings

a) Begin on passenger side
b) Use 10mm wrench to loosen and remove the nut from the oil line retainer

c) Lift the oil line retainer off of the rubber securing bushing and let it rest on the subframe
d) Loosen and remove the front bolt from the sway bar bushing bracket using a 13mm short socket and ratchet

e) Loosen and remove the rear bolt from the sway bar bushing bracket using a 13mm short socket and ratchet

f) Remove the bracket from the sway bar bushing using a flat head screw driver.
g) Remove the sway bar bushing (This is a pain…I had to use needle nose pliers)

h) Clean the sway bar mounting point for the bushings and the sway bar bracket.

i) Lubricate the Powerflex sway bar bushings using the supplied silicon grease (Again, the marine grease is supposed to be an acceptable alternative)
j) Insert the new greased bushings (Can be a pain)
k) Reinstall sway bar bushing bracket
l) Reinstall rear bushing bracket bolt and tighten half way
m) Reinstall rear bushing bracket bolt and tighten all the way
n) Torque rear bushing bracket bolt
o) Torque front bushing bracket bolt
p) Reinstall the oil line securing bracket using the nut and 10mm wrench
q) Repeat steps D-O for driver side

r) Reinstall forward plastic tray using Phillip’s head screw driver

STEP 4: Replace Front Wheels and Lower Vehicle

a) Reinstall front wheels and bolts
b) Jack up vehicle
c) Remove jack stands
d) Lower vehicle
e) Torque front wheel bolts

STEP 5: Replace Rear Sway Bar Bushings

a) Unbolt rear sway bar bushing bracket using 13mm socket, 1/2" adapter, and breaker bar.

b) Remove bushing bracket and old bushing using flat head screw driver
c) Clean sway bar bushing mounting area and sway bar bushing bracket

d) Lubricate Powerflex rear sway bar bushings using supplied grease (Marine grease as an alternative)
e) Install new sway bar bushings and replace bracket
f) Bolt down sway bar bracket bolts and torque using 13mm socket.
g) Remove wheel blocks
h) Test Drive

BoostedNYC · 01-10-2018, 01:18 AM

Great post!

Thinking lf getting this done when or if I fi the h$r springs.

Can you post where you bought them?

Thanks

jandref321 · 01-10-2018, 01:32 AM

I ordered them from ECStuning over the holidays since they had a sale. Their ordering system was a little jacked up and had the wrong part numbers so I copied the part numbers directly from the powerflex website to confirm.

frankenm · 01-10-2018, 09:00 AM

Great to know!

My front sway bar bushings need replacing and I've been putting it off not wanting to drop the subframe, drain the coolant etc as recommended by the BMW manual.

Once I feel like working on the truck again this is at the top of my list.

jandref321 · 01-10-2018, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankenm

Great to know!

My front sway bar bushings need replacing and I've been putting it off not wanting to drop the subframe, drain the coolant etc as recommended by the BMW manual.

Once I feel like working on the truck again this is at the top of my list.

The front sway bar bushings are definitely a challenge. I was disappointed with myself when I realized how few pictures I took. I will try to take more the next time I have the wheels off the truck to help identify locations. The driver side was a pain but the passenger I thought was impossible after about an hour of trying until I realized I needed to just remove the oil line bracket. Each bolt on the front sway bar brackets requires you to put the ratchet in a certain position and the ratchet needs to be low profile and long enough to get leverage on the bolts. I’ll add more info and pics when I get the chance.

mitch808 · 01-10-2018, 04:26 PM

Only that Thrust bush was your culprit. A hard spec swaybar bushing, wont contribute to NVH like suspension arms. I've done it before too with a street car, because, why not? 'racecar! Oh to be young and dumb again.... Yeah, never again.

It's even worse in your case, since it was up front, and will be directly felt through the steering wheel. Where as some platforms, when done on the rear, don't really effect NVH as much as the front will do.

Oh and hawaii roads are no worse, than the rest of the US mainland. :P

jandref321 · 01-24-2018, 01:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mitch808

Only that Thrust bush was your culprit. A hard spec swaybar bushing, wont contribute to NVH like suspension arms. I've done it before too with a street car, because, why not? 'racecar! Oh to be young and dumb again.... Yeah, never again.

It's even worse in your case, since it was up front, and will be directly felt through the steering wheel. Where as some platforms, when done on the rear, don't really effect NVH as much as the front will do.

Oh and hawaii roads are no worse, than the rest of the US mainland. :P

Yep, I actually did the front only first since it took me so long and then I swapped the rear about a week later. It was actually still rough in the rear with the black series sway bar bushings...I just hate the roads around my neighborhood...all torn up and filled in so it's crazy rough.

I updated the original post with pictures showing the direction to insert the ratchet from...maybe a little confusing to orient yourself though.

01-10-2018, 01:10 AM	#1
jandref321 Captain 350 Rep 728 Posts Drives: 2012 X5M Join Date: May 2014 Location: United States iTrader: (1)	X5M Powerflex Bushing DIY Race vs Street Gents, Bottom Line: If you’re not legitimately tracking your vehicle just go for the Powerflex Street Bushings NOT the Racing Black Series Bushings. Background: I bought my ///M CPO and it came with Powerflex Black Series Race Bushings on the Thrust Arms and the Front and Rear Sway Bars. The ride has been pretty sporty, but the other day I offered my car to the wife to drive and she said she didn’t want to drive it to work since the ride is so rough. I was shocked, but I agreed that the ride is a little rough. I bought some Powerflex Street bushings to replace the Race bushings and install a few weeks ago. Impressions: The ride is still firm and stable, but softer on the torn up Hawaiian roads. I can notice a bigger difference when turning on EDC. Before I could turn it on or off but not really tell whether it was working at all. Now when I enter a corner I can immediately tell whether or not I have the EDC on sport since there is more roll. Handling still feels the same otherwise and it tracks solid and feels great on the highway. When I get off the highway I always turn off EDC since the roads are rough. Before I felt like the chassis was going to vibrate apart, but now it’s compliant and the bumps feel softer. I’m very pleased with the purchase and change…I’ve never driven an X5M on stock bushings but I hear it’s a lot softer. I may have actually gone this route but then I’d have to press stock bushings back into the thrust arms and even though this is technically a performance downgrade it still feels like an upgrade to me. Installation: NOTES: I believe you are supposed to lower the subframe to install the front sway bar bushings; they are very difficult to replace without lowering the subframe, but it is still doable and these directions describe how to do it. The biggest necessity for installing without lowering the subframe was using a short or shallow socket in the front and maneuvering around some oil lines. The rear sway bar bushings are insanely easy and can be done with the vehicle on the ground. I didn’t take that many pictures since I was on the clock to finish it before the wife got grumpy. PARTS: 1 x Set of Powerflex Thrust Arm Bushings (Comes with grease) 1 x Set of Powerflex Front Sway Bar Bushings (Comes with grease) 1 x Set of Powerflex Rear Sway Bar Bushings (Comes with grease) TOOLS: 1 x Jack 2 x Jack Stands Wheel Blocks 1/2” Drive Breaker Bar 18mm Socket 1/2" Drive 17mm Deep Socket 1/2" Drive 3/8” Ratchet 3/8” Ratchet Extension 18mm Socket 13mm Socket 3/8” Drive 1/4" Short Socket Ratchet 13mm Short Socket 1/4" Drive 18mm Wrench Flat Head Screw Driver * Bushing Press Tool STEP 1: Lift Front of Vehicle and Remove Wheels a) Put the Parking Brake on b) Block the rear wheels c) Break the lugs on the front wheels using 1/2" breaker bar and 17mm Deep Socket d) Jack up the vehicle using the center jack point e) Place the Jack Stands under the front side jacking point jack pads f) Lower the vehicle so that the weight is on the jack stands and remove jack g) Remove Front Wheels and place them under the vehicle behind the jack stands STEP 2: Replace Thrust Arm Bushings a) Loosen screws holding forward plastic tray on vehicle using phillips head screwdriver (The screws won’t come out fully, but be held on the plastic tray) b) Remove plastic tray and inspect for leaks (You may find an oil leak or coolant leak that needs to be addressed, if you find nothing then just clean it for next time) c) Loosen and remove bolt holding the thrust arm in place at the subframe (This is the bushing side NOT the ball joint side) using a 18mm socket on the nut facing toward the inside of the vehicle and a 18mm socket, 1/2" adapter, and breaker bar on the outward facing bolt. (Once you loosen the bolt with the breaker bar switch to a ratchet; the bolt is a pain to remove due to plastic in the way; you can remove this plastic but I just pressed up on it and pulled the bolt out) d) Remove old bushing (If you have stock bushings this is where you use the bushing press tool. Ensure that the threads are greased up and you are using an appropriately sized press.) e) Clean the interior of the thrust arm and file down any sharp edges around the outside of the hole. f) Install one half of the Powerflex bushings ensuring that the arrow on the bushing lines up with the arrow on the thrust arm. g) Install the other half of the bushing, lining up the interior halves and pushing them together. h) Lubricate the interior of the combined bushing with supplied grease (This is silicon grease, I have read that marine grease at your local autostore is the best alternative if you need to regrease) i) Push the metal tube into the bushing j) Reinstall the thrust arm onto the subframe with the bolt and nut using 18mm wrench and 18mm Socket and ratchet DO NOT TIGHTEN DOWN (This can be difficult to reinstall since the bolt is a pain to line up and get in then a pain to line up the on the other side) k) Load the suspension using a jack under the wheel hub until the vehicle begins to lift off of the jack stands (Don’t let it lift all the way off the jack stand, this is only to simulate the vehicle being on the ground) l) Torque down the bolt securing the thrust arm to the subframe using 18mm wrench and 18mm socket, 1/2" adapter, and breaker bar (I am unsure of the actual torque setting, I’ve been doing these by feel based on removal) m) Release the jack n) Repeat steps C-M for other side of vehicle STEP 3: Replace Front Sway Bar Bushings a) Begin on passenger side b) Use 10mm wrench to loosen and remove the nut from the oil line retainer c) Lift the oil line retainer off of the rubber securing bushing and let it rest on the subframe d) Loosen and remove the front bolt from the sway bar bushing bracket using a 13mm short socket and ratchet e) Loosen and remove the rear bolt from the sway bar bushing bracket using a 13mm short socket and ratchet f) Remove the bracket from the sway bar bushing using a flat head screw driver. g) Remove the sway bar bushing (This is a pain…I had to use needle nose pliers) h) Clean the sway bar mounting point for the bushings and the sway bar bracket. i) Lubricate the Powerflex sway bar bushings using the supplied silicon grease (Again, the marine grease is supposed to be an acceptable alternative) j) Insert the new greased bushings (Can be a pain) k) Reinstall sway bar bushing bracket l) Reinstall rear bushing bracket bolt and tighten half way m) Reinstall rear bushing bracket bolt and tighten all the way n) Torque rear bushing bracket bolt o) Torque front bushing bracket bolt p) Reinstall the oil line securing bracket using the nut and 10mm wrench q) Repeat steps D-O for driver side r) Reinstall forward plastic tray using Phillip’s head screw driver STEP 4: Replace Front Wheels and Lower Vehicle a) Reinstall front wheels and bolts b) Jack up vehicle c) Remove jack stands d) Lower vehicle e) Torque front wheel bolts STEP 5: Replace Rear Sway Bar Bushings a) Unbolt rear sway bar bushing bracket using 13mm socket, 1/2" adapter, and breaker bar. b) Remove bushing bracket and old bushing using flat head screw driver c) Clean sway bar bushing mounting area and sway bar bushing bracket d) Lubricate Powerflex rear sway bar bushings using supplied grease (Marine grease as an alternative) e) Install new sway bar bushings and replace bracket f) Bolt down sway bar bracket bolts and torque using 13mm socket. g) Remove wheel blocks h) Test Drive __________________ 2020 G01 X3 30e CURRENT M Sport Package 2019 Ford Raptor SuperCrew CURRENT 802A, KN Drop-in, RB Flaps, Husky Well Liners 2012 E70 X5M SOLD Stg 1+ Turbos, DPs, Velos Stg 2+, JB4, Race Cats, Bavauto Coils 2003 E46 M3 SOLD aFe CAI, AP Axleback, SSK, H&R Springs, TMS CMBR Arms, PF RTABs Last edited by jandref321; 01-24-2018 at 01:40 AM.. Reason: Added pictures
	Appreciate 2 Kraftwerk AG460.00 Teh.brandon25.50 Tweet Quote

01-10-2018, 01:18 AM	#2
BoostedNYC Private 37 Rep 58 Posts Drives: '21 X5MC - Marina Bay Blue Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: City That Never Sleeps iTrader: (0)	Great post! Thinking lf getting this done when or if I fi the h$r springs. Can you post where you bought them? Thanks __________________ 01' e36 M3 ~ GONE 01 B5 S4 stage 3+ Tial 605s~OWN
	Appreciate 0 Quote

01-10-2018, 01:32 AM	#3
jandref321 Captain 350 Rep 728 Posts Drives: 2012 X5M Join Date: May 2014 Location: United States iTrader: (1)	I ordered them from ECStuning over the holidays since they had a sale. Their ordering system was a little jacked up and had the wrong part numbers so I copied the part numbers directly from the powerflex website to confirm.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

01-10-2018, 09:00 AM	#4
frankenm First Lieutenant 99 Rep 397 Posts Drives: 12' X5M, 99 M3 Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: San Diego iTrader: (0)	Great to know! My front sway bar bushings need replacing and I've been putting it off not wanting to drop the subframe, drain the coolant etc as recommended by the BMW manual. Once I feel like working on the truck again this is at the top of my list. __________________ 2012 X5M - M5 S63TU Turbos/Manifolds, Custom Exhaust, Intake, JB4/BCM, OEM race stripes 1999 323 - M3 Clone - Hardtop - S50 Cams, S52, 3.23 LSD, Koni Sport, 18' E46 M3 Wheels
	Appreciate 0 Quote

01-10-2018, 04:26 PM	#6
mitch808 Captain 108 Rep 994 Posts Drives: 2012 X5 35i Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Seattle iTrader: (0)	Only that Thrust bush was your culprit. A hard spec swaybar bushing, wont contribute to NVH like suspension arms. I've done it before too with a street car, because, why not? 'racecar! Oh to be young and dumb again.... Yeah, never again. It's even worse in your case, since it was up front, and will be directly felt through the steering wheel. Where as some platforms, when done on the rear, don't really effect NVH as much as the front will do. Oh and hawaii roads are no worse, than the rest of the US mainland. :P __________________ 2012 X5 xDrive35i Sport Activity - Alpine White - M Sport Package
	Appreciate 0 Quote