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I did mine yesterday, and it was a very doable DIY. My experience was quite a bit cautious at first because I got 2 different lists of item of this running board RetroFit kit. One states to have sealing compound + 20 ISA screws and the other just states 10 ISA screws and no sealing. It took sometime to go back and forth with the local dealer about this and never really got it straighten out.
Anyhow, the process seems pretty complicated at first as to how to remove the wheel well with rivets, and how to put the rivets back. And are the rivets re-usable? It came much clearer when I actually put my hands into the DIY. The rivets for sure are not re-useable. However, there are other easy-to-buy from a local auto parts store or hardware store that can be used in place of those rivets. Not the exact same look but they serves the exact same purpose and are as good.
Here are my hints for those who still have questions.
1) Removing rivets on rear wheel well: Push the center pin in. It doesn't have to go all the way in, but it's not easy to know when to stop. Either way will work. When the center pin is pushed inside, use a Philip driver to pry it out. Once the center pin is pushed in, it's very easy to pry the rivets out. THERE'S NO WAY TO GET THE RIVETS OUT IF YOU DON'T PUSH THE CENTER PIN INSIDE.
2) The rear wheel well is snapped onto the fender with clips, so you will have to pull it out (not so hard, just gently pull will do). YOU ONLY HAVE TO REMOVE 2 RIVETS ON REAR WHEEL WELL TO PULL ONE END OF THE WHEEL WELL OUT. YOU ONLY GAIN ACCESS TO ONE END OF THE MAIN RUNNING BOARD TRIM AFTER PULL THE WHEEL WELL OUT. YOU DON'T HAVE TO COMPLETELY REMOVE THE WHEEL WELL. JUST REMOVE THE ONE END THAT SNAPS ONTO THE RUNNING BOARD.
3) Removing black clips under the running boards: very easy. Use a Philip driver to pry it out. VERY EASY.
4) Once you remove all the clips under the running board, TWO screws on the bottom of the rear fender and ONE screw on the bottom of the front fender need to be removed. NO NEED TO REMOVE THE WHEEL WELL IN THE FRONT.
5) Now is the hard pulling part to pull out the big running board trim. This trim is snapped onto the vehicle body with 8 clips. The front end of the trim is also attached to the body with 2 hooks. Pull the trim out in the front with 2 hooks need more strength than with the clips along the trim. You will have to manage to pull it out in the front first, then the rest is easy.
6) When you have this big running board trim removed, then removing the support inside is very easy. Just unscrew 11 screws (6 top and 5 bottom) will easily take it off.
7) As mentioned above, you are (or not) supposed to apply some sealing compound to the holes before mounting the new support part of the new aluminum running board. As I noticed, with mgoddard1's help (as said above in his thread), that the new screws come along with the kit have some blue sealant at the bottom of the head. I guess these screws are pre-sealed to simplify the DIY.
8) Putting the new aluminum running board is a little tricky. You have to align it, push it, and make sure it snaps onto the body, the rear wheel well, the front fender, etc. For me, the whole process of this DIY is a one man show. However, this last step here to put the BIG and LONG running board will be much easier if you have a helped to hold one end of the trim.
9) I found it much easier to leave the white clips off the trim when mounting it onto the body. You will have room after pushing and aligning it in place to snap these white clips on to the trim. These white clips as well as the black ones under the running board are easily pushed in place. Replacing the 3 screws (1 front on bottom of trim and 2 back under rear fender), pushing the rear wheel well back in place AND YOU'RE DONE.
AFTER ALL, THE NEW ALUMINUM RUNNING BOARDS LOOK AWESOME ON YOUR X5. GOOD LUCK.
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