Quote:
Originally Posted by Sophisticated Redneck
Wow that is scary, is the shaft keyed/splined at all or is just the nut tightness all that makes it turn?
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I was unable to remove the nut because the center part would spin with it without spinning the internal pump, if that makes any sense. According to tis manual there is a flat hex piece and it ask “ to check for damage”. Probably a frequent common problem.
Anyhow manage to get the upper oil pan off. To me, it’s worst than removing the cylinder head.
Just remove cylinder 1 rod bearing to check the size. Which was std. I was surprised to see the lower bearing has more wear than the upper. The crank was in great shape.
Going to go with oem bearings as the other were all race tri-metal bearings which I don’t intend on rebuilding anytime soon.
Bottom is lower bearing.