Quote:
Originally Posted by TwinSnailz
Thanks Mr.Rednex
There are 2 hidden bolts on the rear of the head that is attach to the downpipe heat shield. I was struggling as to what was still holding it down. Had to googled a picture of the cylinder head and there it was. This was a one man job for me so I had to climb in the engine bay to lift the head out as there was no leverage support strength from standing outside. I am 6ft by the way and was standing/sitting in the valley of the motor 
Everything looks good. Valves and piston is perfect. Pieces of chain guided was everywhere. Im assuming that some of it was clogging the oil pump pick up screen which explains for low oil pressure. But that will be another day.
Im too deep in this repair already so might as well change out the rod bearings too.
Im thinking King bearing Tri metal or back to oem bi-metal bearings.
Both don’t seem to last long at all. |
Congrats on getting it apart! I remember those heat shield bolts now, pain in the butt. The heat shields will come back to haunt you when you are putting the heads back on and trying to align the heads on the block alignment pins, bend them out of the way or remove them before putting the heads back on.
Also when you are lowering the heads back on the engine, you have to tie/tape the timing chain guides and chains as narrow together as possible to feed it through the head when you lower it back on. It will just clear with the angle you have to lower the heads on to avoid the shock towers. If possible, have another person help you, if not then doing from standing on the engine might be easier, I did from the side and I think I am still sore from it, those heads get freaking heavy after awhile.
BTW, I just added an oil pressure gauge to mine, soooo nice being able to see the oil pressure (it hits over 100psi on cold start, 30-40psi at idle, 60-80+psi when stepping on it depending on rpm). You would think with performance models, especially on the M, that oil pressure gauges would be included stock.
Working on a custom circuit now to convert signals from the pressure sensor to work with DME so the factory low pressure signal will still function. I am making it adjustable the factory BMW low oil pressure warning is set at 7psi, which might as well be useless.
I will do a write-up and I am going to make some extra signal converters for anyone else that wants to add an oil pressure gauge to their N63/S63 once I am done testing but since you already have yours torn down, if you want to add one now let me know and I will PM you the details.