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      11-29-2016, 08:16 PM   #61
m5james
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Drives: '10 X5M Alpine White on Sakhir
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Marysville, WA

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Might be too soon to tell after only 5hrs of combined driving, but I'm pretty confident I've fixed my reduced power warning. The usual driving patterns that would kick off the warning haven't caused anything:

- WOT in M and Sport mode just before it's about to shift
- 75% throttle in low speed and high gear situations while sitting in traffic
- pretty much anything above 50% throttle while on the highway

I wasn't able just yet to replace ALL the vacuum lines as the front 4 lines are the hardest to access. Those are the ones coming off the front of both vacuum canisters and both wastegates, which ultimately connect to two different sensors on the front of the engine, mounted to a bracket that requires removal of the passenger intercooler, all of which are mentioned on a thread linked above.

The lines I did replace connect from the vacuum module/pump on the backside of the engine, which feeds to the rear of the vacuum canister on the passenger side. I also did the line that goes from the rear of the vacuum canister on the drivers side, goes overtop the engine and connects to two T's behind the passenger canister. See top picture.

Here's where I'm not sure which was my issue:
- the vacuum line coming off the back of the drivers side canister was fairly short and didn't have a nice gradual curve, but instead was tight. I can't say it was crimped, but who knows what could happen under vacuum
- the vacuum line that fed into the muffler exhaust valves were removed and plugged when I bought the truck. I figured why have more vacuum lines running than necessary, so I figured out which line feeds to the trunk. Note also that this line is 99% hard plastic and only switches to rubber at the trunk sensor and at the T behind the passenger side vacuum canister. See the T I removed on the bottom right picture, which is located to the right of #7 on the bottom left picture.
- since deleting the vacuum line running to the trunk, I was able to delete one T from the lines. See bottom right picture.

My advice...double check for kinks (i don't know why it was kinked at all since it was stock vacuum line) and if you've already deleted your muffler valves, go a step further and simply remove one T, eliminating a possible leak from the entire length of the truck. If you haven't deleted your muffler valves, remove that one T for shits and giggles anyways, then leave the line dangling there as there's no need to plug it since vacuum won't be going through it any longer. Just note that the valves won't open in M mode due to lack of vacuum.
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'10 BMW X5///M - Alpine White on Sakhir Orange - JB4 w/ HCP Stage 2 BEF, NGK 97506 @ .20, SS tubing & BMC filters, gutted cats, AC Forged 312 22's, H&R 2"
'98 BMW 740iL - ///E39 M5 6spd swap, fully built engine (sleeved, P&P, cams), 3.46 LSD, H&R Stage 2/Bilstein HD, Magnaflow 14816's
'97 BMW 328ci - ///E36 M3 clutch & L/W flywheel, Z4///M 18's

Last edited by m5james; 11-29-2016 at 09:45 PM..
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